Difference in brands of reloading dies

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gmar

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I need to buy some .308 dies for an AR and want to know if there much of a difference between the different brands. I know a lot of people consider Lee the lower end but what's considered middle of the road and top of the line? Is really much of a difference and it is worth spending the extra money?
 

mr ed

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Since your talking picky semi auto versus bolt or single shot. You will probably want to consider the small base dies that resize back closer to factory than the full length dies. Most all are called full length dies, but many don't give that extra squeeze that some tight chambered semi autos need.
 

1911user

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I need to buy some .308 dies for an AR and want to know if there much of a difference between the different brands. I know a lot of people consider Lee the lower end but what's considered middle of the road and top of the line? Is really much of a difference and it is worth spending the extra money?

I would buy the Hornady full-length die set. The expander on the full-length sizer is elliptical in shape and will stretch the brass/neck less than other shapes. It will also work for reforming brass from other calibers much better than other options. The seating die is a "dead-length" seating die. It aligns/centers the bullet before pressing it into the case neck.

If you also want a neck-sizing-only die get the Lee collet sizing die. Lube the area inside the die where the collet fingers are forced together using a decent high-pressure grease; lithium is good. The advantage to this die is no case lube needed and the case neck is pressed into a collet centered by the primer hole of the case being sized.

Are you using a progressive reloading press? If so, post the model and I'll give you a die setup/arrangement that will load match accurate ammo on a progressive press in 2 passes including power trimming.
 

gmar

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I would buy the Hornady full-length die set. The expander on the full-length sizer is elliptical in shape and will stretch the brass/neck less than other shapes. It will also work for reforming brass from other calibers much better than other options. The seating die is a "dead-length" seating die. It aligns/centers the bullet before pressing it into the case neck.

If you also want a neck-sizing-only die get the Lee collet sizing die. Lube the area inside the die where the collet fingers are forced together using a decent high-pressure grease; lithium is good. The advantage to this die is no case lube needed and the case neck is pressed into a collet centered by the primer hole of the case being sized.

Are you using a progressive reloading press? If so, post the model and I'll give you a die setup/arrangement that will load match accurate ammo on a progressive press in 2 passes including power trimming.

I have a Hornady LnL and Lee single stage press. Also, I have a Dillon Rapid Trim to trim my cases. Any advice you could provide would be appreciated!
 

1911user

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I have a Hornady LnL and Lee single stage press. Also, I have a Dillon Rapid Trim to trim my cases. Any advice you could provide would be appreciated!
For the first pass, have a universal decap die in station 1 (decaps anything, including crimped-in primers), the dillon trimmer in station 3, and the Hornady full-length sizing die in station 5 (basically just expanding the neck, the dillon trimmer sizes the outside of the case). Lube the cases with dillon spray lube (or other lanolin-based spray lube) before the first pass; let it dry. After the first pass, run the cases through a tumbler using corn cob media (maybe with some kind of additive to help remove case lube, maybe not). Also ream/swage any crimped primer pockets, if needed. After the first pass, no case lube is needed or desired.

For the second pass, place a Lee collet-sizing die in station 1 (it cleans any media out the flash hole AND aligns the case neck, important step for accuraccy!!), a powder die in station 2, a Hornady seating die in station 3 (set not to crimp), and a taper crimp die in station 4 (if desired). This setup works for a dillon 650, you may need to adjust the arrangement (pass 2 only!) for when the LNL primes. I've owned an LNL-AP in the past, but it's been a few years. Now I use a dillon 550 setup and a RockChucker if needed.

This setup processes clean brass of unknown origin, trims it, does primer pocket mods if required, aligns the case neck, seats a centered bullet, and crimps (separately) if needed.

Per some feedback in the past, this setup produces very consistent ammo.
 

Blitzfike

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I have a variety of brands of dies, More RCBS than enything else, then Lee. I like the Dillon dies for the Dillon press as the sizer die has a little bit better chamfer
at the die opening, making cases feed from the case feeder better. I have never worn out a Lee die or any other for that matter and I have loaded many thousands
of rounds. For the buck, the Lee is hard to beat, especially with the premium sets that have the factory crimp die. All my straight wall pistol die sets are carbide for
obvious reasons, but the lee carbide dies are as good as any other brand for my purposes. The only caarbide die I have ever had a problem with is a Hornady, and
when I called to find out if it was in warranty, the lady I talked with basically brushed me off.. I've heard about their great warranty, but that was not my experience
Blitzfike
 

MoBoost

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There is really nothing "lower end" about Lee dies. Unless you are punching paper holes and long range - Lee will do fantastic job. I would highly recommend it!
 

gmar

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There is really nothing "lower end" about Lee dies. Unless you are punching paper holes and long range - Lee will do fantastic job. I would highly recommend it!

I didn't think there was anything wrong with Lee dies, that's just what I heard on some of the other boards. I currently use Lee Dies to reload .223 and use to use them to load 6.5 Grendel.
 

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