Go with the .223 Wylde. Everybody I know that went with 7.62 X 39 wishes they had went with the .223.
I'm sure there are exceptions though.
I'm sure there are exceptions though.
The hard surface on the mil spec trigger is only .001 deep. Emery cloth will ruin it. Polish with jewelers Rouge and add JP yellow springs. Cut the hook off the milspec trigger.
It really just depends on what you want to do with it. Without a clear goal in sight, there's not a whole lot to say.
I would highly recommend rethinking the 18" barrel, though. They became popular because of the Mk12, which was the official standardized SOCOM wide version of the RECCE rifles that Crane had been building for the Navy. The Army and Navy fought over the barrel length. The Army wanted 20" because their current marksman rifles were basically modified M16s, and the Navy wanted 16" because that's what their RECCE rifles were. So they compromised at 18".
There's nothing really wrong with an 18" mid length, but the additional two inches of barrel don't give you much extra velocity over a 16", and for two additional inches you can have a rifle length gas system, which is very close to ideal. There are rifle length 18" barrels, but they're notoriously finicky.
Whether you go 16 or 20 depends entirely on what you plan on shooting, and what you plan on shooting it at.
As far as what parts to use, all that can be said is to go with reputable manufacturers. Milspec is meaningless, and even if they claim full milspec it really doesn't say much. Especially lately though I've been hearing about things going sideways that basically haven't ever been a problem before. Like gas tubes getting eaten by the gas keys, bolt catches breaking, brand new hammer springs failing, etc. There are certain things that are supposed to basically last forever, that haven't ever broke in the history of the AR15, that you now hear about breaking. The quality control is getting abysmal.
The sure bet is to go with Colt. FN and LMT are also pretty safe I would say. Colt especially is now supporting the builders market a lot more than they used to. Like I said, though, it all depends on what you want it for. I mean if you're going to build a race gun then obviously none of those will support that. Or if you're just wanting something to plink with steel on the back 40 and abuse with corrosive ammo then Anderson or whatever would be indicated there.
You might even consider a pistol caliber. When things normalize again, 9mm is about a third of the price of .223, and you don't really notice the ballistic difference at close range. It's also a lot more friendly for shooting steel targets because you can get aluminum case lead bullets that are very easy on your targets for super cheap, whereas most if not all the cheap .223 has steel in it and will ruin your targets. You can also get a lot closer with 9mm, whereas with .223 you want to stay maybe 25-50 yards back.
Or you might also consider a dedicated .22 AR. Doesn't get any cheaper, and they are way too much fun. Basically all the same benefits of the 9mm, but to a greater extent. Cheaper ammo, cheaper targets, etc.
And don't feel like you have to build it immediately. There's nothing wrong with putting it in the safe and just keeping it as an investment and maybe building it one day.
I would highly recommend rethinking the 18" barrel, though. They became popular because of the Mk12, which was the official standardized SOCOM wide version of the RECCE rifles that Crane had been building for the Navy. The Army and Navy fought over the barrel length. The Army wanted 20" because their current marksman rifles were basically modified M16s, and the Navy wanted 16" because that's what their RECCE rifles were. So they compromised at 18".
There's nothing really wrong with an 18" mid length, but the additional two inches of barrel don't give you much extra velocity over a 16", and for two additional inches you can have a rifle length gas system, which is very close to ideal. There are rifle length 18" barrels, but they're notoriously finicky.
Whether you go 16 or 20 depends entirely on what you plan on shooting, and what you plan on shooting it at.
As far as what parts to use, all that can be said is to go with reputable manufacturers. Milspec is meaningless, and even if they claim full milspec it really doesn't say much. Especially lately though I've been hearing about things going sideways that basically haven't ever been a problem before. Like gas tubes getting eaten by the gas keys, bolt catches breaking, brand new hammer springs failing, etc. There are certain things that are supposed to basically last forever, that haven't ever broke in the history of the AR15, that you now hear about breaking. The quality control is getting abysmal.
The sure bet is to go with Colt. FN and LMT are also pretty safe I would say. Colt especially is now supporting the builders market a lot more than they used to. Like I said, though, it all depends on what you want it for. I mean if you're going to build a race gun then obviously none of those will support that. Or if you're just wanting something to plink with steel on the back 40 and abuse with corrosive ammo then Anderson or whatever would be indicated there.
You might even consider a pistol caliber. When things normalize again, 9mm is about a third of the price of .223, and you don't really notice the ballistic difference at close range. It's also a lot more friendly for shooting steel targets because you can get aluminum case lead bullets that are very easy on your targets for super cheap, whereas most if not all the cheap .223 has steel in it and will ruin your targets. You can also get a lot closer with 9mm, whereas with .223 you want to stay maybe 25-50 yards back.
Or you might also consider a dedicated .22 AR. Doesn't get any cheaper, and they are way too much fun. Basically all the same benefits of the 9mm, but to a greater extent. Cheaper ammo, cheaper targets, etc.
And don't feel like you have to build it immediately. There's nothing wrong with putting it in the safe and just keeping it as an investment and maybe building it one day.
Great post . . . but we all know after he starts tinkering with this he'll buy more . . . and build more. This is just the beginning.
Yep, AR15 builds, the new gateway drug...Great post . . . but we all know after he starts tinkering with this he'll buy more . . . and build more. This is just the beginning.
My advice is to say - "screw you budget" but build smart. Take your time to see what you like, bargain hunt, and look for used parts. Rome wasn't built in a day, your AR doesn't have to be either. There are areas where you should spend more and areas where you can save.
Most people start with a "budget build" or a "poverty pony" and end up switching out 1/2 the crap on there, spending more money on it over the long haul.
A few tips
Find a lower parts kit without the trigger control group and pistol grip. The A2 pistol grip that comes with a standard LPK is trash compared to what is on the market and almost always gets switched out. Same with the trigger, once you feel how good it can be, you wont want to go back to a GI. Buying the kit this way saves quite a bit. I picked one up in August for $40.
Trigger. Tons of options out there ranging from $50 - $400. Best trigger for the money is the Larue tactical MBT. I think they are $89 shipped but worth every penny. There are a ton of drop-in options that are light, crisp, and no travel. Understand if you want single or 2 stage trigger.
Shop around for grips, stocks, handguard etc. See what fits you and your purpose best. That is just something you just have to get a feel for.
Barrel - I tend to spend more that I should on a barrel but I always found it worth it for me. I'd stay away from the really cheap and really expensive ones.
BCG - I like a quality NiB coated BCG only because they are easy to clean
Most people start with a "budget build" or a "poverty pony" and end up switching out 1/2 the crap on there, spending more money on it over the long haul.
A few tips
Find a lower parts kit without the trigger control group and pistol grip. The A2 pistol grip that comes with a standard LPK is trash compared to what is on the market and almost always gets switched out. Same with the trigger, once you feel how good it can be, you wont want to go back to a GI. Buying the kit this way saves quite a bit. I picked one up in August for $40.
Trigger. Tons of options out there ranging from $50 - $400. Best trigger for the money is the Larue tactical MBT. I think they are $89 shipped but worth every penny. There are a ton of drop-in options that are light, crisp, and no travel. Understand if you want single or 2 stage trigger.
Shop around for grips, stocks, handguard etc. See what fits you and your purpose best. That is just something you just have to get a feel for.
Barrel - I tend to spend more that I should on a barrel but I always found it worth it for me. I'd stay away from the really cheap and really expensive ones.
BCG - I like a quality NiB coated BCG only because they are easy to clean
Like POKE1911 said, that’s the beauty of the platform. Find out what you want and then the hunt for the part at the best price becomes the new game. I’ve know guys that took up to a year depending on your wants and availability or sales.
I was just thinking about a 20" and rifle length gas and handguard. I'm really thinking about eventually making it into something of a "Retro Rifle" like the A1 or A2 style.
And yes, I think I'll go with a .223 Wylde barrel. After doing some reading, the 762x39 really does sound quite problematic.
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