Couple of good questions (I hope)

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HoLeChit

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As mentioned before, I have or will soon have most of the stuff needed. I do need to figure out what’s gonna work in the way of a trickler and a scale. I don’t wanna go cheap, but I don’t want to blow a ton of money getting these. Any bang for the buck suggestions I won’t have to replace for a few years?
 

rockchalk06

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As mentioned before, I have or will soon have most of the stuff needed. I do need to figure out what’s gonna work in the way of a trickler and a scale. I don’t wanna go cheap, but I don’t want to blow a ton of money getting these. Any bang for the buck suggestions I won’t have to replace for a few years?
Tricklers are cheap. I have a plastic one from Hornady that works great. My scale is a 50 dollar Hornady too. Both are about 5 years old and still running.

I want to get the RCBS charge master soon, but that's a big jump.
 

Dumpstick

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I do need to figure out what’s gonna work in the way of a trickler and a scale.

Tricklers are cheap. Pick a cheap one and get it.

Scales on the other hand...
I'm going to go against what I suspect will be most others, and recommend against an electronic scale for powder charges.
At least, at first.

Get a decent mechanical scale. A 502 or 505 will last you forever. They used to pop up on eBay,, but everything is priced abnormally right now.

A cheap electronic scale is crap, and you will be constantly wondering about the accuracy. A good electronic scale is hundreds of dollars.

Get a good mechanical scale, scoop and trickle. When you get more experience, you may want to spend for an electronic scale.

Maybe not.

I've been reloading for over 30 years, I use a scoop and trickle, or a powder throw. No electronic scale for powder.
 

doug1949

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I use a large caliber pistol case to trickle powder-slowly rock it back and forth between your thumb and forefinger and you can trickle 1 or 2 grains at a time. Re replacing bullets and powder in steel cases: I am no expert but you might have trouble crimping the case around the replacement bullet because the steel case may not shrink back like brass. Electronic scales are more accurate than a balance beam scale, but not by very much. However, electronic scales are much slower than a volumetric powder dispenser
 

HoLeChit

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Suggestions on how to test loads/ determine if I’ve done what I wanted to accomplish? I’m typically a 1-1.5moa shooter most days of the week, at least with my center fire rifles. Don’t have a sled or a chrono. I’m feeling like buying a chrono is going to be a must, esp considering my primary concern is building consistent center fire rifle hunting loads. What’s the general rule of thumb? Start at the minimum, and ramp up loads until you start seeing warning signs, then back off a little? Currently I’m looking at loading plinking pistol rounds and rifle hunting rounds.

38spl/223 was mentioned earlier as a good starting point for reloading due to ease, is that every one else’s opinion as well?


any suggested reading/videos on testing/developing loads?
 

okierider

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Suggestions on how to test loads/ determine if I’ve done what I wanted to accomplish? I’m typically a 1-1.5moa shooter most days of the week, at least with my center fire rifles. Don’t have a sled or a chrono. I’m feeling like buying a chrono is going to be a must, esp considering my primary concern is building consistent center fire rifle hunting loads. What’s the general rule of thumb? Start at the minimum, and ramp up loads until you start seeing warning signs, then back off a little? Currently I’m looking at loading plinking pistol rounds and rifle hunting rounds.

38spl/223 was mentioned earlier as a good starting point for reloading due to ease, is that every one else’s opinion as well?


any suggested reading/videos on testing/developing loads?

Generally speaking I run into the accurate load well before max load. I start at the bottom and work up in 1grain increments . Find which is most accurate and then work forward and backward from there in .1 increments.......... Have not really had to mess with adjusting crimp yet.
 

swampratt

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Lead sled is not needed and it will in fact make the rifle shoot different and I mean way different than if you shouldered it
or just rested the front of the gun stock on a bag and shouldered it.

Save your money and do not buy a led sled.
Build a bag to shoot off of or buy one if you are not crafty.
A bag of sand or bag of rice works very well.
Take some old worn out jeans or long sleeve shirt and cut the leg or sleeve off and fill it.
You can tie the ends shut with a hose clamp or staples or whatever.

My accuracy loads come in 2 different ways a Low accuracy noe and a High accuracy node for my .308.
My .223 is just a good shooter and most loads work well.
Some powder has potential for more velocity than others.

H4895 in .223 is way slower in velocity than N133 but both shoot excellent.

I have Red dot powder and bullseye for pistol that I like to use and you can build really slow to medium velocity stuff.
HP38 and Win 231 are the same powder and is a great choice for pistol.
As are many more powders.
I do not crimp my rounds.
I get better accuracy without a crimp.

I bought a chronograph.
I use it just out of curiosity.

It has NEVER helped me find an accurate load.

I have had loads that shot within 3 fps of each other and some in that group shot exactly the same velocity but the paper with holes in it said it was CRAP!

I trust the paper.
"Accuracy nodes and OCW" look that up.

I also shoot in the heat and cold with a load I feel is a good load and that will tell me if it is a good load in different temps.

Just making the ammo colder will not duplicate a cold rifle and cold chamber.
You must cool it all off to get definitive results.

That just means you need to get out and shoot.
 

Forgalspop

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I’m sure others on here might disagree, but one way to start out reloading is with a Lee Breech Lock Hand Press. I have been reloading for years only using the Lee Hand Press, due to not having a dedicated room for reloading and for portability. I take my reloading supplies with me when I travel to where I do my shooting in New Mexico. I can experiment with loads and easily adjust some loads.

I have reloaded for many years and my loads all go bang and are accurate. I am very meticulous in my reloading – weighing cases, bullets and powder charges and getting them as close to the same for each batch. With the Lee hand held press I can get a very good tactile feel for each load.

I am providing a link to a website that has great information on reloading. The website is not just about reloading; it contains a very eclectic mix of information on multiple subjects. The website is run by a man in California who is a retired engineer from Lawrence Livermore Laboratories. He is getting up in years and I’m surprised his website is still up and running. He was and still possibly is an avid varmint hunter. On his website goes into reloading, varmint hunting, rifle barrel harmonics, precision shooting, mini-lathe projects, ham radio, computer, metallurgy, etc. etc. There is a lot to digest and have visited the site often. Some of the subjects on engineering are above my pay grade.

He goes into reloading in depth and what he has learned. I have picked up some good tips from reading his info on reloading. He does not go into pistol reloading only rifle.

Even if one is not interested his reloading stuff, there is lots of fascinating information on other subjects. Hope it helps! That’s my two cents worth. “Free advice is worth what paid you for it!”

That’s my story and I’m stickin’ to it.

Link: http://www.varmintal.com/arelo.htm

Also I have purchased much of my reloading dies. Etc. from Titan Reloading and found their prices to be very competitive. Looking at the site lately seems like they are like every other reloading supply dealer – out of many products.

Link: https://www.titanreloading.com
 

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