Driveway replacement question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

KOPBET

Duck of Death
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
12,789
Reaction score
8,470
Location
N36º11.90´ W95º53.29´
I will be replacing my driveway next month. A couple of optional add-ons are 4k psi concrete and 1/2 in. rebar (but not in the sidewalk and approach due to city requirement). Are these optional add-ons worth the extra $500 combined cost? I'm not sure I really care what the drive will look like in 20 years.
 

918evo

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
624
Reaction score
444
Location
Tulsa
If you plan on living there for 10 or more years, it is probably worth it.
1. What psi concrete is the standard concrete(3000?)
2. I'm assuming for the "standard concrete package" they using smaller diameter rebar throughout(#3 3/8")
3. How large is the driveway(basic 2-car)?
4. Do you plan on driving heavy trucks on it?
 

KOPBET

Duck of Death
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Jun 28, 2008
Messages
12,789
Reaction score
8,470
Location
N36º11.90´ W95º53.29´
If you plan on living there for 10 or more years, it is probably worth it.
1. What psi concrete is the standard concrete(3000?)
2. I'm assuming for the "standard concrete package" they using smaller diameter rebar throughout(#3 3/8")
3. How large is the driveway(basic 2-car)?
4. Do you plan on driving heavy trucks on it?

1. Not sure. I can ask.
2. As I understand it, no rebar that I know of.
3. Basic 2-car. ~40 ft to the street.
4. No. Just passenger cars.
 

SlugSlinger

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Apr 14, 2009
Messages
7,861
Reaction score
7,694
Location
Owasso
I’d ask the installer what their standard is.

Sounds like they are up selling at a profit. I’d call the concrete supplier and ask the price difference between 3500 and 4000. I suspect it’s $5-$10 a yard at the most. You can do the same for the rebar at a supplier.

You can get an idea if the upgrade is worth $500.

You really don’t need 4000 psi or 1/2” rebar. I estimated my the psi weight of my 7,000 lbs 2500HD Duramax. At most it’s 145 psi. That’s about 2”x6” tread foot print.
 

chadh2o

Gunslinger
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Dec 31, 2015
Messages
604
Reaction score
663
Location
Norman
I use cow panel instead of rebar. Zero separation if overlap 6", wire tied. Heck of a lot less expensive than rebar. Most concrete guys charge more even if u buy the panels cause its a PIA to pull up.
 

CHenry

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Feb 12, 2009
Messages
21,399
Reaction score
13,000
Location
Under your bed
From a guy who knows a little about building interstate highways, the answer is no. Unless you plan on parking a 15k lb truck on it. Use the standard 3500 psi with 3/8" rebar spaced 16"-24" both directions. and 3.5" deep for the portland. Screen mesh can be used even cheaper and still last a good long time with average size 3500 lb cars on it. Cut it 1/2' deep every 10' also. Control cracks is all that is, it will crack but you will never see the cracks under the sawcut.
I poured 3500 psi for my shop and 3 years later decided I wanted a 10k lb lift on it so I cut cores in the area I wanted the lift. It needed to be a min 3500 psi and 4" deep. it crush tested in the materials lab at 4900 psi and was 4" deep. I paid for the basic and got premo
 
Last edited:

Parks 788

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Oct 13, 2010
Messages
3,105
Reaction score
2,915
Location
Bristow, OK
I'll be the guy that says to do it. You all sure 3500 psi is the standard? I thought 3000 was the standard. I'm always one to go a little bigger, a little heavier, a bit more HP and cubic inch, a bit more capacity, etc. this hold true with building and construction if it makes sense. On a concrete driveway? Yep. Personally I'd make him do the 4k psi concrete with 1/2" rebar as well as make them put in the 6x6 10x10 welded wire mesh also known as remesh. And I'd make them put them up on concrete dobies. None of this lay it on the ground and using a hammer to pull it up into the concrete once the concrete is poured. Guys that do that would be off my project in a heartbeat.

There are two guarantees with concrete. 1) it's going to get hard and 2) its going to crack. Your goal and the contractors job is to mitigate the cracking as much as possible. What is the soil like under the driveway? Compacted properly? lots of clay soil? how is drainage of rain runoff? Lots of factors play into keeping a concrete driveway structurely sound and going a bit extra on the reinforcement is the way to do it.
 

dennishoddy

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Dec 9, 2008
Messages
84,778
Reaction score
62,439
Location
Ponca City Ok
I'll be the guy that says to do it. You all sure 3500 psi is the standard? I thought 3000 was the standard. I'm always one to go a little bigger, a little heavier, a bit more HP and cubic inch, a bit more capacity, etc. this hold true with building and construction if it makes sense. On a concrete driveway? Yep. Personally I'd make him do the 4k psi concrete with 1/2" rebar as well as make them put in the 6x6 10x10 welded wire mesh also known as remesh. And I'd make them put them up on concrete dobies. None of this lay it on the ground and using a hammer to pull it up into the concrete once the concrete is poured. Guys that do that would be off my project in a heartbeat.

There are two guarantees with concrete. 1) it's going to get hard and 2) its going to crack. Your goal and the contractors job is to mitigate the cracking as much as possible. What is the soil like under the driveway? Compacted properly? lots of clay soil? how is drainage of rain runoff? Lots of factors play into keeping a concrete driveway structurely sound and going a bit extra on the reinforcement is the way to do it.
Zactly. If anybody told me 3.5 inches was perfect, I'd almost double it. If I was told rebar was good on 24" centers was perfect, I'd knock it down to 16". (My patio, deck, hot tub is on 12" centers with rebar and fiber cement, no cuts)
If anyone told me the fiber cement didn't need rebar, I'd kindly inform them that is not true and show them a cracked issue in more than one place on a sidewalk.
That's why engineering is necessary. What works in one place isn't good in another. I'm a gorilla builder that contractors working on a budget and a contract builders for concrete can't put into their budget to get a job. They have to minimize expenditures and sometimes quality to get the contract from state agencies.
 

SlugSlinger

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Apr 14, 2009
Messages
7,861
Reaction score
7,694
Location
Owasso
Are you taking credit for the Oklahoma interstate highway system? I now know who to call and complain about the crappy roads. :laugh6:

JK, I was curious about the pattern for the rebar. Thanks for the info.


From a guy who knows a little about building interstate highways, the answer is no. Unless you plan on parking a 15k lb truck on it. Use the standard 3500 psi with 3/8" rebar spaced 16"-24" both directions. and 3.5" deep for the portland. Screen mesh can be used even cheaper and still last a good long time with average size 3500 lb cars on it. Cut it 1/2' deep every 10' also. Control cracks is all that is, it will crack but you will never see the cracks under the sawcut.
I poured 3500 psi for my shop and 3 years later decided I wanted a 10k lb lift on it so I cut cores in the area I wanted the lift. It needed to be a min 3500 psi and 4" deep. it crush tested in the materials lab at 4900 psi and was 4" deep. I paid for the basic and got premo
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom