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The Water Cooler
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1911 deep cleaning... loads of pic's
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<blockquote data-quote="_CY_" data-source="post: 718802" data-attributes="member: 7629"><p>simple green is basically strong soap... yes you can do the same job with solvents. but solvents are much harder on your skin. </p><p></p><p>it's really important to drench in breakfree immediately after drying. simple green will deep clean metal, so a protective film is needed afterwards. </p><p></p><p>strong alkaline solutions should not be used for aluminum frame guns. </p><p>aluminum reacts strongly to alkaline (base), but tolerates most acids. </p><p></p><p>steel is all but immune to alkaline, but reactive to most acids. some like nitric acids will etch deeply into steel, but bounce off of aluminum. </p><p></p><p>most stainless steels are much less reactive to acids in general. </p><p>salts energizes activity .. this is why carrying CCW next to skin will accelerate corrosion.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="_CY_, post: 718802, member: 7629"] simple green is basically strong soap... yes you can do the same job with solvents. but solvents are much harder on your skin. it's really important to drench in breakfree immediately after drying. simple green will deep clean metal, so a protective film is needed afterwards. strong alkaline solutions should not be used for aluminum frame guns. aluminum reacts strongly to alkaline (base), but tolerates most acids. steel is all but immune to alkaline, but reactive to most acids. some like nitric acids will etch deeply into steel, but bounce off of aluminum. most stainless steels are much less reactive to acids in general. salts energizes activity .. this is why carrying CCW next to skin will accelerate corrosion. [/QUOTE]
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