1st time boat owner, MANY questions & issues

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

sh00ter

Sharpshooter
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Aug 15, 2012
Messages
4,544
Reaction score
3,126
Location
Twilight Zone
I'm going to use this thread to post all my Q&A so here goes...

Bought an '04 boat w/ volvo penta 4.3 GL/SX inboard/lower unit. Boat sat for 5yrs in covered storage since last run. Told it was winterized, engine oil looks totally clean. I've not been able to test the boat yet because it needs some TLC but I bought it from a 2nd cousin who's owned it for many years.

Issues & questions so far (please read on down as I'll be using this thread as the single place to ask to avoid spamming the forum):

1.) stored w/ brass drain plug left in, corroded and can't remove it! Boogered it up, tried a little heat, PB blaster, etc. Can't get good leverage on it due to angle/trailer in the way

2.) trailer has 5-plug flat, my truck has 4 plug. running lights work if I plug in the 4 but tail/brake lights do not. Is the 5th plug for the brake lights or for trailer brakes? Trailer has a master cyl on it that seemed to work by inertia but then again I don't have an electric brake controller in my vehicle. Perhaps the tail lights are just burned out bulbs or do I need an adapter from 5-to-4 plug for it all to work? Since I do not have electric brake controller, is it still good? How do I know if the trailer has electric brakes, the tongue seems to move and I KNOW the trailer brakes worked because I had to haul the boat 150 miles to bring it home.

3.) What "freeze plugs" or whatever on the motor/exhaust do I need to check/open/tighten, etc. to make sure this thing is safe to start on the trailer (I bought muffs but haven't tried this yet)

4.) Bad batteries, had 2 wired in some sort of sequence, I got 2 new ones I'm going to install tonight and hopefully see if everything works...why 2 batteries? It has some battery A/B/ALL switch on it so I guess the batteries power different things?

5.) How to charge batteries if cables are wired together where negative comes off battery 1 and goes to 2, etc...I can provide more details on how it is hooked up later but perhaps someone can tell me why 2 batteries.

6.) Batteries were "Dual purpose RV/Marine" so that is what I replaced them with instead of 1 starting and 1 deep cycle like I'd have suspected should be done in a boat with 2 batteries???

7.) Will "new" 5yr old oil be fine for a trip or two to the lake until I get time/proper tools to change it or is it a MUST to change the oil now?

8.) I was told it was winterized before being put away but I seriously doubt there is anti-freeze in the block and stuff...how does that work? Are you supposed to do that and then drain it in the spring or what? THIS BOAT WILL NOW BE STORED OUTSIDE FOR AT LEAST A FEW SEASONS (but it came with a factor cover that was never used thankfully).

9.) I want to change the plugs, wires, cap, rotors, etc...can i get Chevy stuff from O'Reilly's or is the Marine stuff different...I think I've determined the plugs are for sure different and there are 3 options listed for that motor on the NGK website (which I have no idea which it is until I pull an old plug). But what about the other stuff...can I run Accel wires and cap/rotor or what?

10.) I plan to change the lower unit oil but I'd like to forego this until after I at least get to take the boat out a time or two...is this a must? Can I check the level at least or must I change it since it sat so long?

11.) I have become aware that there is a water pump impeller that needs to be changed out periodically to avoid failure. Is this in the lower unit to on the motor itself like a car? I'd like to wait to do this until this fall

12.) Not sure yet how much 5yr old gas is in the tank, but I poured in a can of seafoam and planned to just top it off w/ fresh 91 octane non-ethanol gas??? Is that okay redneck style? I can't take too long to get this boat ready or my wife will be mad I spent the cash.

12.) What is the proper way to winterize this particular inboard/outboard boat? And what needs to be done in addition to what I've asked above for "de-winterization"?

13.) What else do I need to look for/check before I attempt to take the family out on the boat for the first time???

Thanks fellas, I'm sure the answers will spark more questions clarifications so I'll post as necessary...right now the major thing I need to do is figure out how to get the plug out or have an expert close to Norman, OK help me...if anyone KNOWS what the heck they are doing I'd pay someone to come over and assist me with the boat, but if that does happen, I'm gonna use this forum as the interview process and make sure whoever it is has the experience as a boat owner and/or a pro who will moonlight? Otherwise I'm sure I can do it all with the right info...I really need to figure out part cross overs so I can use what is available cheaper and locally that is the same stuff rather than OEM stuff if it isn't necessary.

Thanks guys, yall are awesome!
 
Last edited:

FreeSpiritBalloon

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
Jan 26, 2013
Messages
389
Reaction score
185
Location
Piedmont
First, I would spray a little oil or fogging oil spray in each cylinder and with the plugs out, turn it over by hand to break the rings loose that are most definitely rusted in place. If you just hit the starter you may end up needing to rebuild it.
We have a Volvo penta 120 in the back yard that I am about to do the same thing to. Been sitting for years.
Just think of how fast brake rotors rust when you haven’t driven for 2-3 days, let alone years.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MacFromOK

Sharpshooter
Special Hen
Joined
May 11, 2016
Messages
13,759
Reaction score
14,757
Location
Southern Oklahoma
First, I would spray a little oil or fogging oil spray in each cylinder and with the plugs out, turn it over by hand to break the rings loose that are most definitely rusted in place. If you just hit the starter you may end up needing to rebuild it.
Liquid wrench works great for this, and I'd let it sit 2-3 days in order to seep below the top ring to the rest. Don't be stingy with it either.

But that's an engine thing. About the only thing I know about boats, is that the water belongs on the outside. :drunk2:
 

Cowcatcher

Unarmed boating accident survivor
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
Messages
6,171
Reaction score
13,852
Location
Inola
Can you access the drain hole from the inside? Some boats you can and some you can't. If you could, you could punch the plug out. Is the plug the locking lever style or the style with a T-handle you turn to tighten?
 

Cowcatcher

Unarmed boating accident survivor
Supporting Member
Special Hen Supporter
Joined
Dec 22, 2017
Messages
6,171
Reaction score
13,852
Location
Inola
Brake concerns: inertia brakes require no electricity. It sounds like that's what your trailer has. IF trailer has electric brakes, you will see a wire going into the back of the hub.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom