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The Water Cooler
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220 electrical question
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<blockquote data-quote="Ahall" data-source="post: 4353402" data-attributes="member: 49426"><p>Ok,</p><p></p><p>You put an old air compressor motor on your table saw, and it sounds like we are in the 2 to 3 hp range.</p><p></p><p>Best practice is a motor starter with and overload circuit and push button starter</p><p></p><p>I found this on Amazon, and its the type of thing you should be considering to protect the saws motor. </p><p>I am not saying this particular one is what you need, just that this is the type of product to think about.</p><p> </p><p>[ATTACH=full]524058[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>The box has start and stop buttons, and inside the box is magnetic switch gear that can handle the motor current a lot better than a glorified light switch. It also has a device below the switch that can be adjusted for maximum allowable current and protect everything downstream, like your motor.</p><p></p><p>There are others available where the switch is mounted remotely from the starter, and that can be cleaner.</p><p>Just be sure the switch is easy to turn off from your normal work position and does not interfere with any controls or stock feed paths. </p><p></p><p></p><p>Now for the rest of the story - that old air compressor motor is probably a capacitor start/ capacitor run motor and not rated for continuous duty. Good chance its very inefficient to operate and may overheat if you do a lot of long rip cuts. If it has a little red reset button on the back, be sure its mounted where you can reach it. Thats the thermal overload switch - it shuts down when it gets hot. If it came out of a direct drive set up, the bearings may be undersized for a belted application. Don't go nuts on belt tension. Just enough that the blade stalls before the belt slips.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ahall, post: 4353402, member: 49426"] Ok, You put an old air compressor motor on your table saw, and it sounds like we are in the 2 to 3 hp range. Best practice is a motor starter with and overload circuit and push button starter I found this on Amazon, and its the type of thing you should be considering to protect the saws motor. I am not saying this particular one is what you need, just that this is the type of product to think about. [ATTACH type="full"]524058[/ATTACH] The box has start and stop buttons, and inside the box is magnetic switch gear that can handle the motor current a lot better than a glorified light switch. It also has a device below the switch that can be adjusted for maximum allowable current and protect everything downstream, like your motor. There are others available where the switch is mounted remotely from the starter, and that can be cleaner. Just be sure the switch is easy to turn off from your normal work position and does not interfere with any controls or stock feed paths. Now for the rest of the story - that old air compressor motor is probably a capacitor start/ capacitor run motor and not rated for continuous duty. Good chance its very inefficient to operate and may overheat if you do a lot of long rip cuts. If it has a little red reset button on the back, be sure its mounted where you can reach it. Thats the thermal overload switch - it shuts down when it gets hot. If it came out of a direct drive set up, the bearings may be undersized for a belted application. Don't go nuts on belt tension. Just enough that the blade stalls before the belt slips. [/QUOTE]
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