357mag pressures in .38 cases

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338Shooter

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I was thinking, if you're shooting a .357mag pistol, could you load the .38 brass to 357 pressures? I know you probably can't use the same data because the case volume difference, but what about reducing the charge properly. Could you load up some 125gr 38s with like 13-14 grains of 2400 and be safe in a gun chambered for .357 mag?

Obviously you'd want to make darn sure you don't get them mixed up with your normal .38 ammo.

Not going to do this, just curious. What are your thoughts besides, "Don't do it kid, you'll blow your gun up"?
 
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Don't do it kid, you'll blow your gun up


The .38 cases are not as thick in the web area. Take a dremel with a cuttoff wheel and section one of each. You'll see.

That said I'm going to see if I can come up with a modern version of the old Skeeter Skelton load (after I get a chrono). A .38 case with a Lyman 358156GC bullet seated in the 2nd crimp groove. This gets very close to the same internal capacity of the .357 mag but in a .38 case. He shot these with a charge of 13.5 grains of 2400. Now he also shot them in an N Frame S&W .357, so take that into consideration. Any other bullet and I wouldn't try it with because it has 2 crimp grooves just for doing this.
 

aeropb

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I predict bad things would happen. If you wanna try it, make sure you try it in a big framed gun. .357 handles double the pressure that 38 does.
 

oneof79

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I have heard of people using 38 special brass and seating the bullets out to 357 length. I dont know how this would affect the crimp but as someone else said the specs are different on the to kinds of brass.

I think that new 357 brass is cheap enough and it will last a looong time if you dont use those barn burner loads in them.
 
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Dustin, once I get that load developed you'll sort of have something to reference 'cause I'm gonna do a thread on it when I work it up. BTW, that load will not chamber in a .38 special gun, only in .357 magnums. And my sole reason for doing it is the ejector rod on my 2.5" S&W snubbie won't clear the magnum cases. What I expect to happen is to land somewhere between .38 +P and full bore magnums. But if I can safely hit the magnum velocities that will just be peachy! :hyper:

Now there is nothing wrong with working up a max load for your individual gun whatever that may be. Could be that it works out to be .38 +P+. Who knows? But if you change even a component lot you need to back down and work it back up if you are running on the ragged edge.
 

SDarkRage

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I think that new 357 brass is cheap enough and it will last a looong time if you dont use those barn burner loads in them.

I know where dustin is coming from because I've wondered this as well. I can't find .357 brass anywhere. I've only got 50 rounds of it myself.
 

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