80% finished AR's, 1911's

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okeydoke

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Stealth Arms offers these frames, along with the jigs for properly finishing the guns. This is legal, as long as you dont sell or trade the frames. you CAN of course, remove all the parts and sell them. Check Ebay for parts kits. You can get ramped-barrel 1911 9mm kits for $360, minus the $20 mag (Midway) and the frame is $165. The jigs run about $200, but of course, you can use them to finish more than one frame. They tell you that if you go with a steel 1911 frame, better buy several of the cutters for the sliderails slots in the frame, and figure on taking 3x as long to finish the frame, too. An alloy frame takes just a very few minutes of work to finish (1911) The AR frame takes longer, cause you're removing more metal and it also takes a $70 Harbor Freight bench mounted drill press and a couple of mill cutters. But everyone should have at least one fighting pistol and one fighting rifle that nobody knows about. Cache it away from your other stuff, too. crud happens, to include divorces,

The 1911 kits include good fixed sights (both front and rear in dovetails) ambi safety, long trigger with stop, beavertail grip safety, (fits stealth frame perfectly) and a checkered, flat mainspring housing. The front of the frame will require "undercutting" up by the trigger guard, as well as stippling. The grip screws are hex head. The beavertail has memory grooves, but does not sweep up quite as high as a Wilson. .45 parts kits are a bit cheaper. Parts fit is very nice, the finish is Filipino. Functional, looks ok, but just a bead blast bluejob,
 
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okeydoke

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depends upon the intended use. If it's a bullseye hardball gun, full lockup. if it's a wadcutter gun, I normally fit either a match barrel or silver braze a barrel positioner into the slide. For combat matches, such baloney doesn't matter. If you can stay in the A zone at 50 yds, and also be as fast as everyone else at closer ranges, you'll win.
 

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