If done properly, Duracoat is extremely durable.
I prepare the firearms the same way, regardless of coating, and Dupli-Color engine enamel (baked on) has proven to be more durable for me than Duracoat.
Hmm. Surprising. My Duracoat holds up beyond expectation.
Seems some are confusing the "paint pen" with the Aluminum Black in a bottle similar to their Perma Blue product. The Aluminum Black is a chemical process similar to cold bluing, and results in like manner depend a lot on preparation. It's essentially an acid which will lightly etch and darken aluminum - I use it regularly to touch up those little dings you get in AR receivers and parts and it generally turns out well. Not sure I'd try an entire gun, frame, receiver, etc. with it unless I felt like I was able to get them completely clean to the bare metal and had a container large enough and with enough solution to fully submerge them.
Back in the days before powder coating, cerakote and duracoat. I was told by a guy working at Marlin they used Krylon semi flat black and put it under a heat lamp when redoing or touching up a customers gun. That's what I always did when refinishing aluminum parts (1970's-90's)
I'm sure there are many better items available today but I'll just stick with a $3.98 can of Krylon.
I'm sure there are many better items available today but I'll just stick with a $3.98 can of Krylon.
You're right. I'm talking about the Birchwood Casey "Super Black" instant touch-up paint pen. I haven't tried the acid type yet.
The aluminum black is clear. You put it on and have to wait for the chemical reaction to occur. Again, I've had great results with it.
No way. I might as well just rattle can it; and I'm not gonna do that either.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It's for small touch ups from dings, not for an entire coating.
