Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Classifieds
Media
New media
New comments
Search media
Log in
Register
What's New?
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Navigation
Install the app
Install
More Options
Advertise with us
Contact Us
Close Menu
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Forums
The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Annealing Straight Wall?
Search titles only
By:
Reply to Thread
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="Ahall" data-source="post: 3735476" data-attributes="member: 49426"><p>I have shot 45/70 for years.</p><p>Never annealed it.</p><p>I have loaded each case more than 30 times.</p><p>Lead bullets from a single shot, and moderate loads so no need to crimp.</p><p>Very slight case flare to ease seating of the bullet.</p><p></p><p>When I shoot the 45/70 from a gun with a tube magazine, the recoil from a stout load can shift the position of the lead if the crimp is too light.</p><p>So a bit of crimp is warranted in that application.</p><p></p><p>I have also seen bullets walk out under the recoil of a light revolver, and jam the cylinder.</p><p></p><p>Annealing reduces the tensile strength of the case, allowing it to yield more easily and not spring back as much.</p><p>Each shot work hardens the case, increasing the strength and reducing the ductility and increasing spring back. </p><p>Annealing restores the ductility.</p><p></p><p>Full length vs neck sizing.</p><p>If its a bolt action or single shot and you only have one, neck sizing is fine.</p><p>With an auto loader, you may have feed problems if you only neck size.</p><p>If you use the ammo in multiple guns of the same caliber, you may need to full length size.</p><p></p><p>Neck sizing allows the shell to match the length of the chamber and minimize length change when it fires.</p><p>It also minimizes the variation in the shells position relative to the chamber walls. </p><p>With a single shot, you get really picky and load each shell with the head stamp oriented the same way in an attempt to account for the runout between the chamber and bore (My eyes are not good enough to tell the difference).</p><p></p><p>The tight length clearance is fine for range work, but not what you want in a hunting or tactical round.</p><p>Too tight and a speck of dirt or grime on the shell jambs up the works.</p><p></p><p></p><p>The downside to full length sizing bottle neck shells is thinning of the case wall.</p><p>The classic shell for problems is the old 303. The chambers were designed to have a lot of clearance and headspace, but it can happen in any cartridge.</p><p></p><p>The firing pin pushes the shell to the forward extreme of the headspace, then crushes the cap and detonates the shell.</p><p>The thinner parts of the brass expand, sealing the chamber with enough friction to stick tightly to the chamber wall.</p><p>The thick case head does not stick and moves back against the face of the breach. </p><p>The case grows to fill the chamber, stretching in the body of the case. </p><p>When the pressure drops, the elasticity of the brass is just enough to release the case from the wall of the chamber and allow for ejection.</p><p></p><p>If you full length size, the case will shorten up and grow again on the next firing.</p><p>The stretching tents to occur in the same area and after repeated reloading's the case is too thin and hard and you get case head separation.</p><p>Pulling back the bolt and getting the last 1/4 inch of the shell is not a good day a the range. Its not that bad to get one out, but not a desirable thing either.</p><p></p><p>This is not a big deal if you gun was designed to handle a ruptured case head, but can be a disaster in some older bolt action designs that did not consider this (pre 1898 pattern Mausers for example)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ahall, post: 3735476, member: 49426"] I have shot 45/70 for years. Never annealed it. I have loaded each case more than 30 times. Lead bullets from a single shot, and moderate loads so no need to crimp. Very slight case flare to ease seating of the bullet. When I shoot the 45/70 from a gun with a tube magazine, the recoil from a stout load can shift the position of the lead if the crimp is too light. So a bit of crimp is warranted in that application. I have also seen bullets walk out under the recoil of a light revolver, and jam the cylinder. Annealing reduces the tensile strength of the case, allowing it to yield more easily and not spring back as much. Each shot work hardens the case, increasing the strength and reducing the ductility and increasing spring back. Annealing restores the ductility. Full length vs neck sizing. If its a bolt action or single shot and you only have one, neck sizing is fine. With an auto loader, you may have feed problems if you only neck size. If you use the ammo in multiple guns of the same caliber, you may need to full length size. Neck sizing allows the shell to match the length of the chamber and minimize length change when it fires. It also minimizes the variation in the shells position relative to the chamber walls. With a single shot, you get really picky and load each shell with the head stamp oriented the same way in an attempt to account for the runout between the chamber and bore (My eyes are not good enough to tell the difference). The tight length clearance is fine for range work, but not what you want in a hunting or tactical round. Too tight and a speck of dirt or grime on the shell jambs up the works. The downside to full length sizing bottle neck shells is thinning of the case wall. The classic shell for problems is the old 303. The chambers were designed to have a lot of clearance and headspace, but it can happen in any cartridge. The firing pin pushes the shell to the forward extreme of the headspace, then crushes the cap and detonates the shell. The thinner parts of the brass expand, sealing the chamber with enough friction to stick tightly to the chamber wall. The thick case head does not stick and moves back against the face of the breach. The case grows to fill the chamber, stretching in the body of the case. When the pressure drops, the elasticity of the brass is just enough to release the case from the wall of the chamber and allow for ejection. If you full length size, the case will shorten up and grow again on the next firing. The stretching tents to occur in the same area and after repeated reloading's the case is too thin and hard and you get case head separation. Pulling back the bolt and getting the last 1/4 inch of the shell is not a good day a the range. Its not that bad to get one out, but not a desirable thing either. This is not a big deal if you gun was designed to handle a ruptured case head, but can be a disaster in some older bolt action designs that did not consider this (pre 1898 pattern Mausers for example) [/QUOTE]
Insert Quotes…
Verification
Post Reply
Forums
The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Annealing Straight Wall?
Search titles only
By:
Top
Bottom