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<blockquote data-quote="Larry Morgan" data-source="post: 2818398" data-attributes="member: 4676">Did you have that block bored or honed before you assembled it? If you are using a modern ring package with moly faces, then it should be plateau honed first. Initial honing is too rough, and needs to be finished out with either a flex hone (colloquially called a &quot;dingleberry&quot; or &quot;dingleball&quot; hone) or an ultra hone (basically a big abrasive brush) to knock the peaks down and give you a plateau finish. If you imagine the bore face as having a lot of sharp peaks and valleys after the initial rough hone, this second step is done to smooth the peaks down to plateaus, leaving only valleys. You want the ring to ride on the nice flat plateaus for a good bearing surface, and you want the valleys to trap oil for lubrication.In ye olde days, cylinders were left more rough for cast iron rings. This would allow them to wear into the bore and seat. Those days are gone, though.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Larry Morgan, post: 2818398, member: 4676"] Did you have that block bored or honed before you assembled it? If you are using a modern ring package with moly faces, then it should be plateau honed first. Initial honing is too rough, and needs to be finished out with either a flex hone (colloquially called a "dingleberry" or "dingleball" hone) or an ultra hone (basically a big abrasive brush) to knock the peaks down and give you a plateau finish. If you imagine the bore face as having a lot of sharp peaks and valleys after the initial rough hone, this second step is done to smooth the peaks down to plateaus, leaving only valleys. You want the ring to ride on the nice flat plateaus for a good bearing surface, and you want the valleys to trap oil for lubrication. In ye olde days, cylinders were left more rough for cast iron rings. This would allow them to wear into the bore and seat. Those days are gone, though. [/QUOTE]

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