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Any LONG-RANGE shooters here???
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<blockquote data-quote="Master Carper" data-source="post: 2116058" data-attributes="member: 15527"><p>This is how I made my last drop chart for shooting from 600 to 1,200 yds. with a 7mm STW shooting Sierra's 150 gr. B.T.-Spitzer at 3,400 fps. with a standard deviation of 11 fps. for 5 rounds...</p><p></p><p>I do all shooting from a solid bench, with front and rear rests...</p><p></p><p>Scope base has a .040 taper...</p><p></p><p>Scopes are sighted in for bullet to strike point of aim at 600 yds...</p><p></p><p>All drop charts are made when there is "0" wind blowing...</p><p></p><p>I prefer cool overcast days, when mirage is at a minimum and the air is clear and not hazy...</p><p></p><p>Two people are needed for this and makes everything go much easier...</p><p></p><p>I start with making a wood frame that is 4 ft. X 16 ft. - two sheets of plywood, end to end...</p><p></p><p>Put a stick on target at the top of 16 ft. target frame. Use as small a target as you can comfortably see. Also, make sure your scope's elevation adjustment is set to "0"...</p><p></p><p>With your gun already sighted in at 600 yds., shoot "1" carefully aimed shot at your target at 650 yds.. Now, have your partner put the smallest target you can accurately see over the center of the bullet hole. With your cross hairs centered on your aiming spot, carefully rotate the elevation adjustment knob on your scope, until the cross hairs center the target, where your bullet hole is. Record this setting as this will now be used for targets at 650 yds...</p><p></p><p>Using your original aiming point, fire "1" shot at 700 yds.. Have your buddy put a target over the center of that bullet hole. You now put the cross hairs on your main target, and dial your scope elevation adjustment knob, until the cross hairs intersect in the center of the target where the 700 yd. bullet went. Record this setting and you are now set for 700 yds...</p><p></p><p>Repeat the above steps for as far as you think you will ever shoot and record every setting...</p><p></p><p>Some guys will place a 25 lb. shot bag over the cheek piece of the stock when making click adjustments, to make sure the gun does not move, as it will help make adjustments a little more precise...</p><p></p><p>After I set one of my guns up last year and completed my drop table, using gallon milk jugs full of water, I set jugs out from 650 yds. to 1,200 yds., in 50 yd. increments. Looking at my drop table I had made earlier, I fired one round at 900 yds. - HIT, I dialed my scope for 650 yds., fired one round - HIT. Fired one round at 1,100 yds. - HIT. I did this at all ranges and never missed a target...</p><p></p><p>You can either tape a chart to the side of your stock or do what I do, have your chart laminated and hang it on your trigger guard - then you'll always have it with you...</p><p></p><p>Range your target, dial your scope in, put the cross hairs where you want the bullet to go and gently squeeze the trigger....</p><p></p><p>Here are a couple of other things that need to be considered, that I do. Always do your load development at 200 yds.. Reason being is that bullets exceeding 3,000 fps. do not fully stabilize until they are well in excess of 100 yds...</p><p></p><p>I also take a 3 ft. length of black electrical tape, put it on a target in the vertical position. Make sure it is straight and when hanging your target, use a plumb level to make sure it is running perfectly straight. Shoot one or two shots at 200, 300 and 400 yds.. Your bullet holes should be in the center of the tape and not off to one side or another. What you want to do, is make sure your scope is not canted one way or another. If it is, the bullet hole will walk the target at and angle. If this is the case, loosen the scope ring halves and rotate the scope slightly and reshoot your line at 200, 300 and 400 yds.. If your scope is not canted, you should be able to keep all shots in the tape...</p><p></p><p>Reloading - just a few tips that I always do. I always seat my bullets to touch the rifling. I always set my sizing die to "float" in the press. I never use a full length size die unless absolutely necessary. Make sure the inside flash hole of the case has been deburred...</p><p></p><p>If I missed anything, just ask!</p><p></p><p></p><p>DAVID</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Master Carper, post: 2116058, member: 15527"] This is how I made my last drop chart for shooting from 600 to 1,200 yds. with a 7mm STW shooting Sierra's 150 gr. B.T.-Spitzer at 3,400 fps. with a standard deviation of 11 fps. for 5 rounds... I do all shooting from a solid bench, with front and rear rests... Scope base has a .040 taper... Scopes are sighted in for bullet to strike point of aim at 600 yds... All drop charts are made when there is "0" wind blowing... I prefer cool overcast days, when mirage is at a minimum and the air is clear and not hazy... Two people are needed for this and makes everything go much easier... I start with making a wood frame that is 4 ft. X 16 ft. - two sheets of plywood, end to end... Put a stick on target at the top of 16 ft. target frame. Use as small a target as you can comfortably see. Also, make sure your scope's elevation adjustment is set to "0"... With your gun already sighted in at 600 yds., shoot "1" carefully aimed shot at your target at 650 yds.. Now, have your partner put the smallest target you can accurately see over the center of the bullet hole. With your cross hairs centered on your aiming spot, carefully rotate the elevation adjustment knob on your scope, until the cross hairs center the target, where your bullet hole is. Record this setting as this will now be used for targets at 650 yds... Using your original aiming point, fire "1" shot at 700 yds.. Have your buddy put a target over the center of that bullet hole. You now put the cross hairs on your main target, and dial your scope elevation adjustment knob, until the cross hairs intersect in the center of the target where the 700 yd. bullet went. Record this setting and you are now set for 700 yds... Repeat the above steps for as far as you think you will ever shoot and record every setting... Some guys will place a 25 lb. shot bag over the cheek piece of the stock when making click adjustments, to make sure the gun does not move, as it will help make adjustments a little more precise... After I set one of my guns up last year and completed my drop table, using gallon milk jugs full of water, I set jugs out from 650 yds. to 1,200 yds., in 50 yd. increments. Looking at my drop table I had made earlier, I fired one round at 900 yds. - HIT, I dialed my scope for 650 yds., fired one round - HIT. Fired one round at 1,100 yds. - HIT. I did this at all ranges and never missed a target... You can either tape a chart to the side of your stock or do what I do, have your chart laminated and hang it on your trigger guard - then you'll always have it with you... Range your target, dial your scope in, put the cross hairs where you want the bullet to go and gently squeeze the trigger.... Here are a couple of other things that need to be considered, that I do. Always do your load development at 200 yds.. Reason being is that bullets exceeding 3,000 fps. do not fully stabilize until they are well in excess of 100 yds... I also take a 3 ft. length of black electrical tape, put it on a target in the vertical position. Make sure it is straight and when hanging your target, use a plumb level to make sure it is running perfectly straight. Shoot one or two shots at 200, 300 and 400 yds.. Your bullet holes should be in the center of the tape and not off to one side or another. What you want to do, is make sure your scope is not canted one way or another. If it is, the bullet hole will walk the target at and angle. If this is the case, loosen the scope ring halves and rotate the scope slightly and reshoot your line at 200, 300 and 400 yds.. If your scope is not canted, you should be able to keep all shots in the tape... Reloading - just a few tips that I always do. I always seat my bullets to touch the rifling. I always set my sizing die to "float" in the press. I never use a full length size die unless absolutely necessary. Make sure the inside flash hole of the case has been deburred... If I missed anything, just ask! DAVID [/QUOTE]
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