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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Anyone ever fireform brass?
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<blockquote data-quote="Blitzfike" data-source="post: 1199437" data-attributes="member: 807"><p>I fireform 357 herret, 30 herret, 6.5 swiss, and form 400 corbon brass from 45acp. The 400 corbon cases do fireform the first time I shoot them, and they are a little shorter than the actual 400 corbon brass, but when I form any brass from another caliber, I adjust the die so that the headspace with the formation of the shoulder is minimum. (sometimes I adjust it so that I have to use a little more force to close the bolt..) That is especially critical in the herret series. I have made 357 sig brass from 40sw in the same manner as making the 400 corbon. If you have any of the so-called Ackley improved chamberings, you usually form the brass by firing the parent caliber in the improved chamber, that blows out the shoulder and gives you the additional case capacity for slower burning powder charges. Don't be afraid to jump in there and do it. If you anneal, you will find that necking down to a smaller caliber, you will destroy more cases than doing the forming without annealing ( you will push the shoulder into the case if you do). If you are expanding the case mouth to a larger caliber, annealing is good before you do the forming. I anneal most of my bottle neck rifle brass after a couple of reloads to extend case life and prevent cracking. Be careful to place the base of the cartridge in water so you don't make the case head soft. A propane torch held to the case neck and shoulder just briefly until the brass slightly changes color is all it takes. Use care not to overheat the brass. Blitzfike</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blitzfike, post: 1199437, member: 807"] I fireform 357 herret, 30 herret, 6.5 swiss, and form 400 corbon brass from 45acp. The 400 corbon cases do fireform the first time I shoot them, and they are a little shorter than the actual 400 corbon brass, but when I form any brass from another caliber, I adjust the die so that the headspace with the formation of the shoulder is minimum. (sometimes I adjust it so that I have to use a little more force to close the bolt..) That is especially critical in the herret series. I have made 357 sig brass from 40sw in the same manner as making the 400 corbon. If you have any of the so-called Ackley improved chamberings, you usually form the brass by firing the parent caliber in the improved chamber, that blows out the shoulder and gives you the additional case capacity for slower burning powder charges. Don't be afraid to jump in there and do it. If you anneal, you will find that necking down to a smaller caliber, you will destroy more cases than doing the forming without annealing ( you will push the shoulder into the case if you do). If you are expanding the case mouth to a larger caliber, annealing is good before you do the forming. I anneal most of my bottle neck rifle brass after a couple of reloads to extend case life and prevent cracking. Be careful to place the base of the cartridge in water so you don't make the case head soft. A propane torch held to the case neck and shoulder just briefly until the brass slightly changes color is all it takes. Use care not to overheat the brass. Blitzfike [/QUOTE]
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Anyone ever fireform brass?
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