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ez bake

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Did you figure out how old your rifle is and whether it has the X-Mark?

Yeah - this is key - if you don't have the X-Mark, then you can have someone like OlYeller work the factory trigger over (or, if he's still not working on rifles, you can always hit up another smith or DIY).

If you do have an X-Mark trigger - make sure its not one of the new 2009 Adjustable models - I've not heard much about these other than they have an external adjustment screw and are actually quite a bit different in design vs. the original X-Mark / X-Mark Pro (and were basically created because Remington was getting their ass handed to them by the Accu-Trigger).

Here's a write-up about it:
http://www.thefirearmblog.com/blog/2009/01/15/remingtons-new-adjustable-x-mark-pro-trigger/

There's also an improved X-Mark Pro trigger (I think it came out in early 2008 maybe?) - its adjustment seems to yield no major problems but its damn near impossible to break the 3 adjustment screws loose. Its only redeeming value is that it feels better out of the box than the crappier 1st gen X-Mark and its got an angled sear spring - but it basically takes a torch's heat to break the screws loose.

Bolt-lock and Safety are different from the old-style Remington trigger to the X-Mark - I don't know exactly which parts you can interchange from one to the other, but I wouldn't attempt it.

Here's the difference between the old and new - these are actually Rifle Basix pics, but note the position of all the pins, plates, screws, etc... (be advised that blued X-mark pros have started showing up and the X-Mark has changed a bit between the original, the improved, and obviously the adjustable):

[Broken External Image]

Here's a guy who tore down one of the "improved" X-Mark triggers:

http://www.24hourcampfire.com/ubbth...+Mark+Trigger&topic=0&Search=true#Post2185569
 

NikatKimber

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I've had the gun since 2007, and I bought it used from M&P. I'll get the gun out tonight and check the trigger.

ETA: I checked the gun, it is a pre-X-Mark trigger.

Here's a picture.
[Broken External Image]
 

NikatKimber

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OK, got out a fish scale to get an idea on the trigger pull weight. Laugh at me if you will, but it's the best I've got at the moment. Nearly no creep, breaks crisp, at only 2 pounds on the "scale." Very little over travel.

I don't think the trigger needs anything.

There is no contact anywhere between the barrel and the stock. Recoil lug seems to contact the bedding evenly.

I'll check more stuff tomorrow.

Thanks for the help.
 

ldp4570

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OK, got out a fish scale to get an idea on the trigger pull weight. Laugh at me if you will, but it's the best I've got at the moment. Nearly no creep, breaks crisp, at only 2 pounds on the "scale." Very little over travel.

I don't think the trigger needs anything.

There is no contact anywhere between the barrel and the stock. Recoil lug seems to contact the bedding evenly.

I'll check more stuff tomorrow.

Thanks for the help.

2lb, no creep, very little over travel. HHHHMMMMMM, put that gun back together, and get to the range. Work on your shoulder time, an working up loads for her. IF you don't know how to work up a range card for her, look it up. Granted a .243 isn't going to give you the range of a good .308, but its nothing to look down your nose at. The trigger on my 700 breaks at 3lbs, and will put those 30-06 slugs boringly into 3/4" to 1" all day at 100yds. If your .243 is doing that, you have nothing to worry over. Set your group to hit 2" to 2-1/2" high at 100yds, then get out to a longer range to see what she's doing.
 

mr ed

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Weenie Rem barrels are designed to have a bedding point with a fair amount of pressure on them about 2" from fore end tip. Which is not needed on the heavy barrels.

Which a lot of people on here may dispute.
But a 3-5 thousandths barrel whip can mean 1/2" or more spread at 100 yards

You might try shimming with some heavy poster board just to see if it tightens the group, (can't hurt to experiment) if it does find a different stock or rebarrel to a heavier barrel.
 

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