I don't know this to be the best method, but the conversation about getting the cam broken in correctly was interesting to me.
They stated rings are beginning to break in. And stated you need to put a load on the engine to break in rings.
FOOEY! With the right rings and cylinder wall finish the rings are broke in during starter cranking.
If you do the shade tree 220 grit hone and cheap cast rings then maybe you need to drive it and load it to get them to seat.
Even then when i did it decades ago with cheap cast rings they broke in instantly.
They are right on flat tappets you need it to fire off immediately for best chance of having it live.
Even in 1969 GM used Moly faced top ring in the 300HP 350.
Why ring manufactures ever offered a cheap cast ring without a moly face for top ring is beyond me.
Maybe too many people thought coarse hone break the glaze.
Yea and when that coarse hone and cast ring with cast face wear each other smooth and seat well where did all that coarse grit go.
If you think oil is 100% filtered you are in for a surprise.
Even if it was say 100% filtered that coarse metal you removed from the cylinder walls must splash
and circulate around all those moving parts before it ever gets to the bottom of the pan to get sucked up my the oil pump gears.
Yep and those gears will show it.
Can of worms.
I do use BR oil and break in my cams in the driveway.
Cams do not get oil from the lifters as much as they should and the 2500-3000 rpm needed for break in is to get splash oil from the crank and rods up to the cam for more oil.
In theory.
I actually run EDM flat tappets or Crower cam saver lifters with a flat ground down the side of the lifter.
Just recently I built a shortblock 350 and I grooved the lifter bores.
That is my first with grooves and I am curious how it will turn out.
Still porting on heads for it.
FOOEY! With the right rings and cylinder wall finish the rings are broke in during starter cranking.
If you do the shade tree 220 grit hone and cheap cast rings then maybe you need to drive it and load it to get them to seat.
Even then when i did it decades ago with cheap cast rings they broke in instantly.
They are right on flat tappets you need it to fire off immediately for best chance of having it live.
Even in 1969 GM used Moly faced top ring in the 300HP 350.
Why ring manufactures ever offered a cheap cast ring without a moly face for top ring is beyond me.
Maybe too many people thought coarse hone break the glaze.
Yea and when that coarse hone and cast ring with cast face wear each other smooth and seat well where did all that coarse grit go.
If you think oil is 100% filtered you are in for a surprise.
Even if it was say 100% filtered that coarse metal you removed from the cylinder walls must splash
and circulate around all those moving parts before it ever gets to the bottom of the pan to get sucked up my the oil pump gears.
Yep and those gears will show it.
Can of worms.
I do use BR oil and break in my cams in the driveway.
Cams do not get oil from the lifters as much as they should and the 2500-3000 rpm needed for break in is to get splash oil from the crank and rods up to the cam for more oil.
In theory.
I actually run EDM flat tappets or Crower cam saver lifters with a flat ground down the side of the lifter.
Just recently I built a shortblock 350 and I grooved the lifter bores.
That is my first with grooves and I am curious how it will turn out.
Still porting on heads for it.
You might enjoy this.
Definitely use break in oil. 3k to break in a cam for 20 plus minutes and I vary the throttle during that break in but never drop below 2500. As for rings they break in during the cam break in or shortly after. I’ve built quite a few motors and have yet to wipe a cam lobe due to improper break in.
Does anyone pressure up the motor with an external oil tank before starting for the first time? I have a Jaguar motor I'm building that I planned to pressure up with an oil before I cranked it the first time. It is a double overhead cam so; no lifters and valve train the worry with. The guy that's rebuilding the head says the cams are good to reuse.
I dont really pressure up per se, but I do have an electric external oil pump that I use to to push oil through the engine so I can verify everything gets to where it needs to go.
For my last built engine, I got some cheap oil that I cycled through for 30min or so as I slowly rotated the crank and watched flow up through the top of the heads. Let it drain for a couple of hours, dumped it and put in the break in oil and did the same. to make sure everything was good to go for first start up.
I typically listen to whatever my engine builder tells me so the last one was broken in on BR40 with an oil change at 100 miles, 500 miles, 1000 miles. I sent a sample from each to Blackstone to monitor for metals and switched to my preferred synthetic at 1000 miles. The first 1000 miles were driven on 100% gasoline to minimize the risk of solvents contaminating the oil. 1000 miles on synthetic gave me a clean bill of health on the oil analysis so I topped it off with ethanol and let her eat. She got fresh oil and filter every 1500 miles after that due to living only on 70% ethanol and higher. Good thing the 8mpg made the oil change schedule seem cheap hahaha.
I’d think that a good assembly lube would keep all the important surfaces lubricated long enough for the oil to begin to circulate. I’ve heard of priming the oil pump and verifying oil is flowing before starting up an engine.
I’m going to look at freshening up a Ford 300 I6 that I bought many years ago to put in my ‘80 F100.
This is what we did to Heavy Equipment Diesel Engines we built. And start and let run for a few hours, stop and drain oil, filters. Put the equipment to work the next day if needed. Mostly Caterpillar and Cummins.
In the olden days, smeared the camshaft bearings and lobes with a light coat of moly grease, STP (because it was supposed to have a lot of moly in it) was used for assembly lube on rods and mains. Have everything set right and fire it up watching the oil pressure gauge which should come up in a couple seconds. Let idle a while checking for leaks, using a timing light, etc. Then don't over rev nor lug the engine, just drive kinda like a normal driver for the first 100 miles or so at varying speeds and various mild loading. That worked well for every day drivers.
Nitro Funny car I worked on, used Moly grease on everything for assembly, 3-4 min idle in the pits and tow to the line. When it was lit up, line up and step on the loud peddle. Ha Ha
Interesting video on opinions of newer stuff. Thanks for posting
Nitro Funny car I worked on, used Moly grease on everything for assembly, 3-4 min idle in the pits and tow to the line. When it was lit up, line up and step on the loud peddle. Ha Ha
Interesting video on opinions of newer stuff. Thanks for posting
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