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Breaking in an engine without a dyno.
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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3935372" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>They stated rings are beginning to break in. And stated you need to put a load on the engine to break in rings.</p><p>FOOEY! With the right rings and cylinder wall finish the rings are broke in during starter cranking.</p><p>If you do the shade tree 220 grit hone and cheap cast rings then maybe you need to drive it and load it to get them to seat.</p><p>Even then when i did it decades ago with cheap cast rings they broke in instantly.</p><p></p><p>They are right on flat tappets you need it to fire off immediately for best chance of having it live.</p><p></p><p>Even in 1969 GM used Moly faced top ring in the 300HP 350.</p><p>Why ring manufactures ever offered a cheap cast ring without a moly face for top ring is beyond me.</p><p>Maybe too many people thought coarse hone break the glaze.</p><p></p><p>Yea and when that coarse hone and cast ring with cast face wear each other smooth and seat well where did all that coarse grit go.</p><p></p><p>If you think oil is 100% filtered you are in for a surprise.</p><p>Even if it was say 100% filtered that coarse metal you removed from the cylinder walls must splash </p><p>and circulate around all those moving parts before it ever gets to the bottom of the pan to get sucked up my the oil pump gears.</p><p>Yep and those gears will show it.</p><p></p><p>Can of worms.</p><p></p><p>I do use BR oil and break in my cams in the driveway.</p><p>Cams do not get oil from the lifters as much as they should and the 2500-3000 rpm needed for break in is to get splash oil from the crank and rods up to the cam for more oil.</p><p></p><p>In theory.</p><p></p><p>I actually run EDM flat tappets or Crower cam saver lifters with a flat ground down the side of the lifter.</p><p>Just recently I built a shortblock 350 and I grooved the lifter bores.</p><p>That is my first with grooves and I am curious how it will turn out.</p><p>Still porting on heads for it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3935372, member: 15054"] They stated rings are beginning to break in. And stated you need to put a load on the engine to break in rings. FOOEY! With the right rings and cylinder wall finish the rings are broke in during starter cranking. If you do the shade tree 220 grit hone and cheap cast rings then maybe you need to drive it and load it to get them to seat. Even then when i did it decades ago with cheap cast rings they broke in instantly. They are right on flat tappets you need it to fire off immediately for best chance of having it live. Even in 1969 GM used Moly faced top ring in the 300HP 350. Why ring manufactures ever offered a cheap cast ring without a moly face for top ring is beyond me. Maybe too many people thought coarse hone break the glaze. Yea and when that coarse hone and cast ring with cast face wear each other smooth and seat well where did all that coarse grit go. If you think oil is 100% filtered you are in for a surprise. Even if it was say 100% filtered that coarse metal you removed from the cylinder walls must splash and circulate around all those moving parts before it ever gets to the bottom of the pan to get sucked up my the oil pump gears. Yep and those gears will show it. Can of worms. I do use BR oil and break in my cams in the driveway. Cams do not get oil from the lifters as much as they should and the 2500-3000 rpm needed for break in is to get splash oil from the crank and rods up to the cam for more oil. In theory. I actually run EDM flat tappets or Crower cam saver lifters with a flat ground down the side of the lifter. Just recently I built a shortblock 350 and I grooved the lifter bores. That is my first with grooves and I am curious how it will turn out. Still porting on heads for it. [/QUOTE]
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