Chainsaws

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rickm

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I can dull a chain in NTF, but as someone mentioned above I think it might have something to do with the oiler. It doesn't use much B&C oil at all, not like other chainsaws I've had that slung it everywhere. Had a guy that used to fell trees for a living tell me that one tank of fuel = one tank of B&C oil, anybody else ever heard this? Mine will go through a tank of fuel and use very little B&C oil, like unscrew the cap and if you tried to put more in it you'd get more on it.
Normally the older saws would use 80% of its oil with a tank of gas but these new ones that i have will barely use 50%, going to check into see if mine can be adjusted or if i have to just replace the oiler.
 
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I forgot an important fact!

Years ago I went to get some new saws. Went to local Lumber Two Lumber Yard as they were a Stihl Dealer. Was reading a manual for a new saw and about the 4th page in highlighted in asterisks was the words written “” DO NOT RUN SAW FULL THROTTLE UNLESS CUTTING WOOD FOR FIRST TWO TANKS”.

So in other words don’t run the saw more than half throttle unless actually cutting wood for first two tanks to allow the saw to break in, set the rings etc etc.

I picked out 2 saws and the young man took them to the back to assemble and ready them. Wasn’t a few minutes later I heard him running them, and he was running the saw wide ass open, just beating on that throttle. I walked back there and said now get me another saw, I don’t want that one. He was taken back a bit at my comment and asked why? I asked him if he had ever read a manual on the saws? He stated, he just got back from a Stihl School and knew all about them. I asked for the manager, and went to the saw display and picked up the manual I had read. Manager came, I handed him the manual with the page opened to the “DONT RUN SAW WIDE OPEN” he then stated they had always fueled them and made sure they worked before sending them on with the customer, and the young man said they did not learn that in school.

Manager said get me a new saw and don’t run it full throttle, went on to say they would rectify the mistake and not do the saws that way.

Now I don't know if they did stop their ways of readying a saw but when I buy new saws I make damn sure they don’t go ape **** on them when they are new.

No telling how much “Age” they were putting on a new saw with the wide open banshee ****, but I know it isn’t good for a new machine to do so.

So if buying new, make sure they don’t prematurely wear on your saw by abusing it on its first start!
We rebuilt all our equipment when needed, rarely sent any piece of equipment out for repair. I am on the side of the fence to let any engine warm up before using it. Some may believe use it like you stole it! I have no issues with chain stretch as I even make sure the chain is warmed up good too.

That’s my two cents on chain saws. Best of luck on buying a new saw out there.
No different than any engine, two stroke or not.
Our race bikes got re-ringed after every two races.
Brought them at a fast idle up to full engine temp, shut off and let cool. Repeat at half throttle. Make a couple practice laps at half to full.
Go racing.
 
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I bought a Husqvarna 440 a few years ago. Absolutely love it.
Easy to start?
I bought a 20” bar Husky 455 Rancher several years ago. It will not start whithout a whiff of starting fluid.
Thought it was just mine until seeing others that have drilled little holes in the cowling to get SF in there. Once it starts in the morning, easy start all day.
 
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Easy to start?
I bought a 20” bar Husky 455 Rancher several years ago. It will not start whithout a whiff of starting fluid.
Thought it was just mine until seeing others that have drilled little holes in the cowling to get SF in there. Once it starts in the morning, easy start all day.
Yeah, not bad. Prime it a few times and it's off to the races. I haven't modified it at all. Actually don't use it that much, but when I drive 60 miles and need to use it, it better start.
The Stihl I had got really wonky, I couldn't get it to run right, took it to the local guru (who can make anything run!) and he couldn't get it right either. So I bought the Husky.
 

7stw

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I bought the echo battery powered one with an extra battery. For 2stroke I also prefer the mid to upper tier echo.forget the model number of my current one cs something. The battery saw is sufficient for most things around my ranch and it’s almost always on my feed truck. (Days fellow freezing I put it inside) if I’m not going to need it. Also have a dewalt pole saw that has lots of hours on it but I have a plethora of 20v dewalt batteries.
 
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I bought the echo battery powered one with an extra battery. For 2stroke I also prefer the mid to upper tier echo.forget the model number of my current one cs something. The battery saw is sufficient for most things around my ranch and it’s almost always on my feed truck. (Days fellow freezing I put it inside) if I’m not going to need it. Also have a dewalt pole saw that has lots of hours on it but I have a plethora of 20v dewalt batteries.


Wife and I took a big pine tree down a couple years back, and I topped it out with a 20v Dewalt pole saw, 32ft extension ladder and a 20v Dewalt Chainsaw. Thise took it down till a 28” and 18” gas saws took over.

But they earned my respect, as they cut a **** ton of wood a chain saw on a ladder couldn’t. At least this for this old man it made it very doable and easier than my small gas saw.

Just the top out was 7 loads on a 20ft trailer.
 
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I have 2 stihls An older 026 16” and newer 250 18”. Also a 30 year old stihl leaf blower. When the blower and 026 started getting hard to start I tried ‘Mechanic in a Bottle’ fuel system treatment/additive. I’m a firm believer in that stuff now
 

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