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The Water Cooler
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Cheap electric heater tweaking
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<blockquote data-quote="Rod Snell" data-source="post: 3666343" data-attributes="member: 796"><p>For those quoting the DC version version of Ohm's law, they cannot be used in AC circuits because AC goes off and on in a sine wave</p><p>pattern. Here are the correct equations for AC circuits: <a href="https://mil.ufl.edu/3111/docs/AC_Power_Eqns_Zmuda.pdf" target="_blank">https://mil.ufl.edu/3111/docs/AC_Power_Eqns_Zmuda.pdf</a></p><p></p><p>US house wiring is usually single phase 220V (nominal) with a neutral (white) wire that allows 110V circuits between one leg of the 220 and the neutral.</p><p>Thus a circuit between the two legs of the 220V will produce twice the power of the 110V circuit, IF BOTH HAVE THE SAME AMPERES OF CURRENT!</p><p>The electric meter only records the CURRENT, so the 220V circuit delivers twice the power for the same cost, just considering this example in isolation.</p><p></p><p>Ideally, the 110V circuits in a house are obtained equally from each leg of the 220 and neutral, so the net current being bled to ground is minimized, and you are actually using the power you are paying for. For example, if you put 110V heaters on circuits made from opposite legs of the 220 to neutral, the current would flow into the house on one leg, through one heater to neutral, then through neutral through the other heater, then out the other leg, with a net loss to ground of zero. This specific case would allow the two 110V heaters to be as efficient as 220.</p><p>Unfortunately, most homeowners have no idea which leg of the 220 is used for each of the 110V circuits, and don't know where to start to balance 110V circuits between the two legs of the 220. High-current circuits in your house (30A and up) are 220V to avoid bleeding current to ground.</p><p></p><p>I had a house in Maryland, built in the '40s, that had ALL the 110V circuits on one leg of the 220, and a HIGH elec bill. I rewired it to current standards, and cut the electricity bill nearly in half.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rod Snell, post: 3666343, member: 796"] For those quoting the DC version version of Ohm's law, they cannot be used in AC circuits because AC goes off and on in a sine wave pattern. Here are the correct equations for AC circuits: [URL]https://mil.ufl.edu/3111/docs/AC_Power_Eqns_Zmuda.pdf[/URL] US house wiring is usually single phase 220V (nominal) with a neutral (white) wire that allows 110V circuits between one leg of the 220 and the neutral. Thus a circuit between the two legs of the 220V will produce twice the power of the 110V circuit, IF BOTH HAVE THE SAME AMPERES OF CURRENT! The electric meter only records the CURRENT, so the 220V circuit delivers twice the power for the same cost, just considering this example in isolation. Ideally, the 110V circuits in a house are obtained equally from each leg of the 220 and neutral, so the net current being bled to ground is minimized, and you are actually using the power you are paying for. For example, if you put 110V heaters on circuits made from opposite legs of the 220 to neutral, the current would flow into the house on one leg, through one heater to neutral, then through neutral through the other heater, then out the other leg, with a net loss to ground of zero. This specific case would allow the two 110V heaters to be as efficient as 220. Unfortunately, most homeowners have no idea which leg of the 220 is used for each of the 110V circuits, and don't know where to start to balance 110V circuits between the two legs of the 220. High-current circuits in your house (30A and up) are 220V to avoid bleeding current to ground. I had a house in Maryland, built in the '40s, that had ALL the 110V circuits on one leg of the 220, and a HIGH elec bill. I rewired it to current standards, and cut the electricity bill nearly in half. [/QUOTE]
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