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The Water Cooler
General Discussion
Chevy Torsion Bar Adjustment
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<blockquote data-quote="338Shooter" data-source="post: 1366776" data-attributes="member: 3449"><p>Cranking the bars is fine. Lots of people do it. Ford torsion keys are popular but they really do the same thing and you can bottom out the stoxk keys if you want. You're just adding preload to the springs (the bars are the springs). The issue you have is likely worn out bars. You can crank but you shuld probably replace the bars. It isn't hard to do. Cranking for leveling is hard on the split shafts if you have 4wd and hard on the ball joints on either 2 or 4wd. If you raise the truck more than an inch or so it is a good idea to have an alignment done. Your camber will be off. You'll also need to think about new shocks if you go over an inch. Cranking also wears harder on the front end like the pitman and idler arms, all four tie rod ends and the steering box. Front end work is expensive.</p><p></p><p>But if you want, there is no danger in cranking them. People do it all the time. With good torsion bars you can get almost 3" lift in the front. If you go over 2" you're asking for trouble IMO. Also, if your bars are worn you're asking for trouble with cranking. Especially if you go with one of the unnecessary key replacements. These just allow more cranking and with worn bars it takes more cranking to get to the same spot as good bars. This overloads the worn bars and they can break. You don't want to be under the truck when they decide to go. </p><p></p><p>I would get new bars and stick with the factory keys. Then crank until you get the level you want. That isn't much and should be perfectly acceptable if you don't have anything but stock in the rear. I have 2" blocks in back and can level the truck without issues other than a rough ride. Yeah the ride goes to hell if you do it.</p><p></p><p>Check out the full size chevy forum. They have a sticky about this in the offroad section.</p><p></p><p>Linkz fo free holla. <a href="http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showthread.php?65871-Ford-Keys-amp-Torsion-Bar-Cranking-Replacing-**TECH**" target="_blank">http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showthread.php?65871-Ford-Keys-amp-Torsion-Bar-Cranking-Replacing-**TECH**</a></p><p></p><p></p><p>There isn't much on this body style chevy truck that you need a mechanic for. If you've got the time and are willing to learn they are easy to work on and there is a metric TON of info on forums. Very popular platform for people to modify.</p><p></p><p>I just swapped a 2002 Express Van PCM into my 1997 and I have a 383 stroker sitting in the garage and a 14 bolt SF rear end to drop under it after I rebuild. If you can dream it you can do it. <img src="/images/smilies/wink.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=";)" title="Wink ;)" data-shortname=";)" /></p><p></p><p>If you decide to do the bars, bring it on over and I'll help.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="338Shooter, post: 1366776, member: 3449"] Cranking the bars is fine. Lots of people do it. Ford torsion keys are popular but they really do the same thing and you can bottom out the stoxk keys if you want. You're just adding preload to the springs (the bars are the springs). The issue you have is likely worn out bars. You can crank but you shuld probably replace the bars. It isn't hard to do. Cranking for leveling is hard on the split shafts if you have 4wd and hard on the ball joints on either 2 or 4wd. If you raise the truck more than an inch or so it is a good idea to have an alignment done. Your camber will be off. You'll also need to think about new shocks if you go over an inch. Cranking also wears harder on the front end like the pitman and idler arms, all four tie rod ends and the steering box. Front end work is expensive. But if you want, there is no danger in cranking them. People do it all the time. With good torsion bars you can get almost 3" lift in the front. If you go over 2" you're asking for trouble IMO. Also, if your bars are worn you're asking for trouble with cranking. Especially if you go with one of the unnecessary key replacements. These just allow more cranking and with worn bars it takes more cranking to get to the same spot as good bars. This overloads the worn bars and they can break. You don't want to be under the truck when they decide to go. I would get new bars and stick with the factory keys. Then crank until you get the level you want. That isn't much and should be perfectly acceptable if you don't have anything but stock in the rear. I have 2" blocks in back and can level the truck without issues other than a rough ride. Yeah the ride goes to hell if you do it. Check out the full size chevy forum. They have a sticky about this in the offroad section. Linkz fo free holla. [url]http://www.fullsizechevy.com/showthread.php?65871-Ford-Keys-amp-Torsion-Bar-Cranking-Replacing-**TECH**[/url] There isn't much on this body style chevy truck that you need a mechanic for. If you've got the time and are willing to learn they are easy to work on and there is a metric TON of info on forums. Very popular platform for people to modify. I just swapped a 2002 Express Van PCM into my 1997 and I have a 383 stroker sitting in the garage and a 14 bolt SF rear end to drop under it after I rebuild. If you can dream it you can do it. ;) If you decide to do the bars, bring it on over and I'll help. [/QUOTE]
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