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Message: <blockquote data-quote="trbii" data-source="post: 3897264" data-attributes="member: 2449"><p>Great advice, thanks. It functioned fine for a couple years, after the gas piston conversion was gunsmith installed. Didn’t fire it for the last 10-15 years, just set clean and oiled in my safe. Took it out to check the zero on the iron sights, (was still on about 2” low from POA at 25 yards). Just started short stroking, fte, ftf. Took the block off, cleaned it thoroughly, and the barrel gas port. Noticed the hole inside the block was chamfered (like a deep deburr) deeply, twice the diameter of the hole, at least. Gave me a good feeling about the blocks’ clock position, if just a tad off, would still flush all the expanding gas needed to work the action. There is no adjustable gas setting on this $400. Conversion kit, that I can see. No index marks or “S” or “N” indicators stamped anywhere. Those are clearly stamped on my LWRC M6A3 carbine. Just checked my LWRC, it’s marked N, S, A, C. Need to read my manual on that, no clue what the A or C stands for. I’ve never messed with adjusting AR gas ports. Buying a can for a center fire caliber rifle/carbine seems to be a futile, expensive, troublesome endeavor to me. Good idea about switching this carbine back to DI action. Going to take it out to the range one more time to test function. Also I found the cap screws not torqued down tight again, today after consulting a gunsmith about tweaking the block position. When I had the block off, I noticed a deep cut across the barrel, and four deep drill starts that seemed be matched to the cap screw shank ends. So the gas block screws will unavoidably slide into that exact position as I torque the screws down? WTH? That’s how it’s done?</p></blockquote><p></p>

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