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<blockquote data-quote="Bill Coye" data-source="post: 1031227" data-attributes="member: 10719"><p>I'm going to re-post these first pics of a knife build I've got going on now. </p><p></p><p>Randy Milligan from OPS took this Oscar Mike prototype out for a spin after we beat it on a job in Arkansas. Now it's time to put that knife away and make him a new one. You can see I didn't sink the corby bolt deep enough on the butt of the knife.....oops. Hey, it's a prototype </p><p></p><p>Specs:</p><p></p><p>3/16 CPM 154 CM Stainless.</p><p>9 3/4" OAL.</p><p>Black micarta handle material.</p><p>Stainless corby bolts.</p><p>In-house heat treat, cryogenic treatment, triple tempered.</p><p>Two kydex sheaths: one to mount inside the mag pouch on the duty belt and one with a tek-lok for belt carry.</p><p>Did I really agree to this?!? </p><p></p><p></p><p>Here's the beater</p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p>Like anything else, a design will go through an evolution as time goes on. Here are three different variants of the same knife. Although slight, each one fits differently in the hand. Finished balance and weight also are a concern. The design goals here are for a general utility knife that's light and quick in the hand yet has backbone to get the job done. The utility-type blade style lends itself better for general use versus a tanto, or other shaped blade.</p><p></p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p>Use your kydex pattern and draw your outline</p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p>Over to the bi-metal bandsaw for a little rough cutting</p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p>Then to the grinder to profile the blank</p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p>Drilling holes in the tang. Using 1/4" bit on a very slow speed on the drill press. If you don't go slow with the larger (> 1/8") bits you'll burn them up. Trust me. </p><p></p><p>Make sure to clamp that blank down if you value your fingers<img src="/images/smilies/smile.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-shortname=":)" /></p><p></p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p>Hollow out the tand with a 2" wheel and a 40 grit belt</p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p>Now to taper the tang - this will lighten the knife and give it better balance.</p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p><p></p><p>Crappy picture but you can see the tang is tapered.</p><p><strong>[Broken External Image]</strong></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Bill Coye, post: 1031227, member: 10719"] I'm going to re-post these first pics of a knife build I've got going on now. Randy Milligan from OPS took this Oscar Mike prototype out for a spin after we beat it on a job in Arkansas. Now it's time to put that knife away and make him a new one. You can see I didn't sink the corby bolt deep enough on the butt of the knife.....oops. Hey, it's a prototype Specs: 3/16 CPM 154 CM Stainless. 9 3/4" OAL. Black micarta handle material. Stainless corby bolts. In-house heat treat, cryogenic treatment, triple tempered. Two kydex sheaths: one to mount inside the mag pouch on the duty belt and one with a tek-lok for belt carry. Did I really agree to this?!? Here's the beater [b][Broken External Image][/b] [b][Broken External Image][/b] Like anything else, a design will go through an evolution as time goes on. Here are three different variants of the same knife. Although slight, each one fits differently in the hand. Finished balance and weight also are a concern. The design goals here are for a general utility knife that's light and quick in the hand yet has backbone to get the job done. The utility-type blade style lends itself better for general use versus a tanto, or other shaped blade. [b][Broken External Image][/b] Use your kydex pattern and draw your outline [b][Broken External Image][/b] Over to the bi-metal bandsaw for a little rough cutting [b][Broken External Image][/b] Then to the grinder to profile the blank [b][Broken External Image][/b] [b][Broken External Image][/b] [b][Broken External Image][/b] Drilling holes in the tang. Using 1/4" bit on a very slow speed on the drill press. If you don't go slow with the larger (> 1/8") bits you'll burn them up. Trust me. Make sure to clamp that blank down if you value your fingers:) [b][Broken External Image][/b] [b][Broken External Image][/b] Hollow out the tand with a 2" wheel and a 40 grit belt [b][Broken External Image][/b] Now to taper the tang - this will lighten the knife and give it better balance. [b][Broken External Image][/b] [b][Broken External Image][/b] Crappy picture but you can see the tang is tapered. [b][Broken External Image][/b] [/QUOTE]
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