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<blockquote data-quote="Shadowrider" data-source="post: 3191830" data-attributes="member: 3099">I believe that IS the correct method per Cerakote, but even they could use some help on their application instructions.&nbsp; I&#039;m just anal about paint coatings because of my experience dating back to high school and later in aerospace with paints, epoxy sealants, etc.&nbsp; In high school body shop class we went through the DuPont certification program and they stressed over and over and over proper cleaning and preparation.&nbsp; One cleaning won&#039;t get it done.&nbsp; 1) Soap &amp; water, rinse. 2) a solvent wash that was actually a mix of solvents to remove waxes and environmental stuff like tree sap for instance.&nbsp; 3) was an organic solvent like acetone, lacquer thinner, etc.&nbsp; Only then did you apply primers, paints, etc.&nbsp; This carried through in a major way in the aerospace where you have to do adhesion, impact, flexibility and abrasion testing as part of your inspection process and certification process.&nbsp; I like alkaline cleaning like Oakite which is also used in hot bluing because it&#039;s just flat works.&nbsp; The stuff we used was a white powder and it looked and smelled like laundry detergent.&nbsp; Which it actually was, just on steroids.&nbsp; The nominal Ph when mixed was 12.5, so it was rather &quot;warmish&quot;, but wouldn&#039;t hurt most metals at all.&nbsp; We had parts that had dropped off our racks into the bottom of our 6&#039; deep tanks and we&#039;d pull them out 3 years later.&nbsp; They didn&#039;t get etched to dust.&nbsp; Etched yes, but still there after all that time.&nbsp; The reason they probably don&#039;t say to use it is it has to be heated.&nbsp; Our tanks ran from 195 to 210 degrees.&nbsp; So a Cerakote applicator would need that equipment too which would hurt their sales.&nbsp; Disposal isn&#039;t an issue other than taking it to a hazmat place for the contaminates on an industrial scale. I don&#039;t see how doing gun parts would ever be an issue, the stuff lasts for a really long time. It was a simple matter to add an acid to drop the Ph to be able to dispose of the solution.&nbsp; Just taking a part and wiping or soaking with a solvent isn&#039;t good enough, IMO.</blockquote>

[QUOTE="Shadowrider, post: 3191830, member: 3099"] I believe that [I]IS[/I] the correct method per Cerakote, but even they could use some help on their application instructions. I'm just anal about paint coatings because of my experience dating back to high school and later in aerospace with paints, epoxy sealants, etc. In high school body shop class we went through the DuPont certification program and they stressed over and over and over proper cleaning and preparation. One cleaning won't get it done. 1) Soap & water, rinse. 2) a solvent wash that was actually a mix of solvents to remove waxes and environmental stuff like tree sap for instance. 3) was an organic solvent like acetone, lacquer thinner, etc. Only then did you apply primers, paints, etc. This carried through in a major way in the aerospace where you have to do adhesion, impact, flexibility and abrasion testing as part of your inspection process and certification process. I like alkaline cleaning like Oakite which is also used in hot bluing because it's just flat works. The stuff we used was a white powder and it looked and smelled like laundry detergent. Which it actually was, just on steroids. The nominal Ph when mixed was 12.5, so it was rather "warmish", but wouldn't hurt most metals at all. We had parts that had dropped off our racks into the bottom of our 6' deep tanks and we'd pull them out 3 years later. They didn't get etched to dust. Etched yes, but still there after all that time. The reason they probably don't say to use it is it has to be heated. Our tanks ran from 195 to 210 degrees. So a Cerakote applicator would need that equipment too which would hurt their sales. Disposal isn't an issue other than taking it to a hazmat place for the contaminates on an industrial scale. I don't see how doing gun parts would ever be an issue, the stuff lasts for a really long time. It was a simple matter to add an acid to drop the Ph to be able to dispose of the solution. Just taking a part and wiping or soaking with a solvent isn't good enough, IMO. [/QUOTE]

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