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The Water Cooler
General Discussion
Driveway repair or complete redo - Recommendations
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<blockquote data-quote="-Pjackso" data-source="post: 4260679" data-attributes="member: 8119"><p>The "depth of excavation" is based on your long-term road rebuild plan when complete. (Base and surface)</p><p>Roads also need drainage, so I'd recommend planning on a slightly elevated road above grade. And/or cut a ditch on each side. Drainage is important to shead water away from the road.</p><p></p><p>To be straight - (As you stated) I'd recommend removing the existing road and excavate 6", if using chip-seal (which is a thin application).</p><p></p><p>For our HOA, I spec 6" thick rock base and 6" asphalt IAW the city spec, so we excavate 12" from road surface (6" + 6").</p><p>The thick base is to accomodate reoccurring heavy trucks (garbage/delivery). You may have heavy farm equipment, so maybe 6" is right for you also. *YOU* need to gauge how thick you want it.</p><p></p><p>For the contractors that work our road repairs - the rock/aggregate is typically 0.75" - 1.25" in size. The rock needs to be angular, not smooth/round. I think this is obvious, but it's worth stating.</p><p></p><p>After excavating the dirt, compact the bare dirt to full compaction.</p><p>Add a 2" layer ("lift") of rock base, and fully compact the rock layer. Add the next 2" layer and repeat until all 6" of rock base is in and compacted. Note: I'm not sure just driving a tractor, truck, or skid steer is enough. That'll only do the tire footprint, and I'm not sure the tire compacting "psi" in the ground is enough.</p><p>**** You'll probably need to rent a compactor.</p><p></p><p>Some websites recommend using different sized rocks at each layer (big at bottom/med/small at top). Our contractors always use the same size aggregate for the full depth.</p><p></p><p>As for using geotextile, it's a toss-up. On one hand, the Geo-fabric stops rocks from sinking into the dirt (which usually isn't really a problem). On the other hand, geo-fabric can choke up with dirt over time - and the fabric can 'channel' drainage under the road and accelerate erosion. In the end, make your best guess. Our HOA doesn't use Geo-fabric.</p><p></p><p>At this point, you've built a strong 6" thick gravel road.</p><p>Add the top surface you like. Chip-Seal, Asphalt, or Concrete.</p><p></p><p>References:</p><p>For more reading per Norman specification:</p><p><a href="https://www.normanstreets.com/" target="_blank">https://www.normanstreets.com/</a></p><p>- Reference – City of Norman - Standard Specifications and Construction Drawing – Section 2205 Pavement Removal and Replacement. Search for "2205"</p><p>- Reference – City of Norman - Standard Specifications and Construction Drawing – Residential Estate/Local (Rural) Street, Drawing No ST 04 - Section view. Search for "ST 04"</p><p></p><p>How much materials do you need?</p><p>Gravel calculator:</p><p><a href="https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/gravel-calculator.php" target="_blank">https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/gravel-calculator.php</a></p><p></p><p>Asphalt calculators:</p><p><a href="https://www.haskelllemon.com/asphalt-sales/" target="_blank">https://www.haskelllemon.com/asphalt-sales/</a></p><p><a href="https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/asphalt-calculator.php" target="_blank">https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/asphalt-calculator.php</a></p><p>Note: There are different 'grades' of asphalt, each using different sizes of aggregate and different oil % content. Type S3 uses 0.75-1.0" rock (roughest surface), Type S4 uses 5/8" rock, and Type S5 uses 3/8"-1/2" rock (smoothest surface). Our HOA uses S5 (smoothest) ashpalt, which looks like every road your thinking of.</p><p></p><p>Haskell Lemon is the OKC local asphalt manufacturer, if you want to call the sales for $/ton.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="-Pjackso, post: 4260679, member: 8119"] The "depth of excavation" is based on your long-term road rebuild plan when complete. (Base and surface) Roads also need drainage, so I'd recommend planning on a slightly elevated road above grade. And/or cut a ditch on each side. Drainage is important to shead water away from the road. To be straight - (As you stated) I'd recommend removing the existing road and excavate 6", if using chip-seal (which is a thin application). For our HOA, I spec 6" thick rock base and 6" asphalt IAW the city spec, so we excavate 12" from road surface (6" + 6"). The thick base is to accomodate reoccurring heavy trucks (garbage/delivery). You may have heavy farm equipment, so maybe 6" is right for you also. *YOU* need to gauge how thick you want it. For the contractors that work our road repairs - the rock/aggregate is typically 0.75" - 1.25" in size. The rock needs to be angular, not smooth/round. I think this is obvious, but it's worth stating. After excavating the dirt, compact the bare dirt to full compaction. Add a 2" layer ("lift") of rock base, and fully compact the rock layer. Add the next 2" layer and repeat until all 6" of rock base is in and compacted. Note: I'm not sure just driving a tractor, truck, or skid steer is enough. That'll only do the tire footprint, and I'm not sure the tire compacting "psi" in the ground is enough. **** You'll probably need to rent a compactor. Some websites recommend using different sized rocks at each layer (big at bottom/med/small at top). Our contractors always use the same size aggregate for the full depth. As for using geotextile, it's a toss-up. On one hand, the Geo-fabric stops rocks from sinking into the dirt (which usually isn't really a problem). On the other hand, geo-fabric can choke up with dirt over time - and the fabric can 'channel' drainage under the road and accelerate erosion. In the end, make your best guess. Our HOA doesn't use Geo-fabric. At this point, you've built a strong 6" thick gravel road. Add the top surface you like. Chip-Seal, Asphalt, or Concrete. References: For more reading per Norman specification: [URL]https://www.normanstreets.com/[/URL] - Reference – City of Norman - Standard Specifications and Construction Drawing – Section 2205 Pavement Removal and Replacement. Search for "2205" - Reference – City of Norman - Standard Specifications and Construction Drawing – Residential Estate/Local (Rural) Street, Drawing No ST 04 - Section view. Search for "ST 04" How much materials do you need? Gravel calculator: [URL]https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/gravel-calculator.php[/URL] Asphalt calculators: [URL]https://www.haskelllemon.com/asphalt-sales/[/URL] [URL]https://www.gigacalculator.com/calculators/asphalt-calculator.php[/URL] Note: There are different 'grades' of asphalt, each using different sizes of aggregate and different oil % content. Type S3 uses 0.75-1.0" rock (roughest surface), Type S4 uses 5/8" rock, and Type S5 uses 3/8"-1/2" rock (smoothest surface). Our HOA uses S5 (smoothest) ashpalt, which looks like every road your thinking of. Haskell Lemon is the OKC local asphalt manufacturer, if you want to call the sales for $/ton. [/QUOTE]
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