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The Range
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First AR build (looking for tips)
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<blockquote data-quote="JEVapa" data-source="post: 3828807" data-attributes="member: 41176"><p>No matter what parts you get, budget, midlevel, or high end, you need tools.</p><p>The right tools count before anything else. Cheap is ok, but not super-cheap stuff...if you go the extra mile to get extra cheap, you end up spending more money replacing your extra-cheap tools.</p><p>You also don't need to go buy the latest and greatest high dollar tools because JiffyJeff and TactiTom at KMAWAzoo Machine said so in a video. You don't need to buy an AR multitool for $$$$ because it looks like some sh*t a Klingon would use to dispatch his enemy.</p><p></p><p>Basic tools kits from Wheeler are great - they sell all this retail and have most tools you need including Action and vice blocks and punch kits.</p><p>Brass punch(s)</p><p>Torque wrench in ft/lbs - autostore or Wheeler</p><p>Torque wrench in in/lbs - autostore or Wheeler</p><p>Bench mounted vise</p><p>Either a barrel vise or an AR action rod**** - online</p><p>Pad...I use a 1'x2' chunk of leather</p><p>Bench block - buy one or make several out of hardwood</p><p>Small ball peen hammer (light weight)</p><p>If you don't get a brass hammer and plastic mallet in a Wheeler kit, you'll need both of these. Small-ish.</p><p></p><p>AR mutitool/AR Wrench - these are gonna be between $25 and $60ish. Anything above that isn't worth it unless you become a full time Armorer or you're whackin Romulans or other space creatures.</p><p></p><p>Additional equip plus advice:</p><p>Moly Disulfide grease. - autostore, it's called CV grease and one tube will last forever.</p><p>MolyDi goes on the barrel nut threads and the receiver extension threads (both Rifle and Carbine). <strong>Threadlocker does not go on these ever</strong></p><p></p><p>You need to download a technical manual...like a 23&P. DL this: <u>TM 9-1005-319-23&P</u></p><p>Link is below. It has all the info you need and then some. AR15.com is not the place for tech info but this manual is.</p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]http://www.combatsimulations.com/ar15/manuals/tm%209-1005-319-23%26p.pdf[/URL]</p><p></p><p>This one usually will start a never-ending argument but here goes:</p><p>Regarding receiver extensions:</p><p>A rifle extension is torqued to <u><em>35-39 </em></u><em><u><em><u>ft/lbs.</u></em></u></em> That is <u>Foot Pounds</u></p><p>A Carbine extension "round plain nut" or "locking nut" (castle nut) is torqued to <u><em>38-42 in/lbs.</em></u> New manual says <u><em>40+/-2in/lbs</em></u> That is <u>Inch Pounds</u>, <em>Not Foot Pounds</em>. Then stake at two notches. The carbine extension doesn't require the strength of Zeus no matter what some guru on AR15.com says.</p><p></p><p>****don't torque things on a barrel using only an action block. You can get away with an MD and a crush washer but you start torquing an MD for a suppressor, you chance shearing the indexing pin or thrashing the notch in the receiver threads.</p><p></p><p><strong>Absolutely NO RED THREADLOCKER, throw that crap in the trash. It has no place on an AR. </strong>Blue is good for gas block screws, rail screws, etc, green is good for Muzzle Devices.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="JEVapa, post: 3828807, member: 41176"] No matter what parts you get, budget, midlevel, or high end, you need tools. The right tools count before anything else. Cheap is ok, but not super-cheap stuff...if you go the extra mile to get extra cheap, you end up spending more money replacing your extra-cheap tools. You also don't need to go buy the latest and greatest high dollar tools because JiffyJeff and TactiTom at KMAWAzoo Machine said so in a video. You don't need to buy an AR multitool for $$$$ because it looks like some sh*t a Klingon would use to dispatch his enemy. Basic tools kits from Wheeler are great - they sell all this retail and have most tools you need including Action and vice blocks and punch kits. Brass punch(s) Torque wrench in ft/lbs - autostore or Wheeler Torque wrench in in/lbs - autostore or Wheeler Bench mounted vise Either a barrel vise or an AR action rod**** - online Pad...I use a 1'x2' chunk of leather Bench block - buy one or make several out of hardwood Small ball peen hammer (light weight) If you don't get a brass hammer and plastic mallet in a Wheeler kit, you'll need both of these. Small-ish. AR mutitool/AR Wrench - these are gonna be between $25 and $60ish. Anything above that isn't worth it unless you become a full time Armorer or you're whackin Romulans or other space creatures. Additional equip plus advice: Moly Disulfide grease. - autostore, it's called CV grease and one tube will last forever. MolyDi goes on the barrel nut threads and the receiver extension threads (both Rifle and Carbine). [B]Threadlocker does not go on these ever[/B] You need to download a technical manual...like a 23&P. DL this: [U]TM 9-1005-319-23&P[/U] Link is below. It has all the info you need and then some. AR15.com is not the place for tech info but this manual is. [URL unfurl="true"]http://www.combatsimulations.com/ar15/manuals/tm%209-1005-319-23%26p.pdf[/URL] This one usually will start a never-ending argument but here goes: Regarding receiver extensions: A rifle extension is torqued to [U][I]35-39 [/I][/U][I][U][I][U]ft/lbs.[/U][/I][/U][/I] That is [U]Foot Pounds[/U] A Carbine extension "round plain nut" or "locking nut" (castle nut) is torqued to [U][I]38-42 in/lbs.[/I][/U] New manual says [U][I]40+/-2in/lbs[/I][/U] That is [U]Inch Pounds[/U], [I]Not Foot Pounds[/I]. Then stake at two notches. The carbine extension doesn't require the strength of Zeus no matter what some guru on AR15.com says. ****don't torque things on a barrel using only an action block. You can get away with an MD and a crush washer but you start torquing an MD for a suppressor, you chance shearing the indexing pin or thrashing the notch in the receiver threads. [B]Absolutely NO RED THREADLOCKER, throw that crap in the trash. It has no place on an AR. [/B]Blue is good for gas block screws, rail screws, etc, green is good for Muzzle Devices. [/QUOTE]
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