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The Water Cooler
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Fuel Additives... Or Whatever They Are...
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<blockquote data-quote="Shadowrider" data-source="post: 1297284" data-attributes="member: 3099"><p>I am an Amsoil dealer. I could recommend SeaFoam for most of it's INTENDED uses when used as directed. But I've always used Amsoil's Engine Flush (and only once when installing Amsoil in an engine for the 1st time that has some miles on it when I don't know the oil change history) and I use the Amsoil Performance Improver (PI) in my gas. I don't use that every 4000 miles like they say only about every 6000 or so. If you buy only 7-11 and WalMart gas you need to run a cleaner through about like this. If you buy almost exclusively top tier fuels they are rarely if ever needed.</p><p></p><p>As to transmission flushes the change machines are great, but as said they don't address the filter at all. This is critical, drop the pan and change the filter. The clutches slip when they don't get enough pressure through the valve body. Filter plugging is what causes this pressure drop. And ATF has everything it needs in the bottle with it. No need for Lucas anything IMO. And I've read the test reports. Ditto for engine oil. It has all the additives, detergents, friction modifiers, etc. that are needed and you can actually degrade these by adding the aftermarket additives.</p><p></p><p>What you need are good quality filters and regular fluid changes.</p><p></p><p>I have almost 240,000 on my Monte Carlo SS. No transmission changes, valve jobs, or anything. The only thing I've replaced is the catalytic converter and I just had that done recently, and the intake gaskets at about 175K. Everything else has been routine, plugs, wires and such. And it still gets 24 MPG and the tranny shifts as good as did at the first fluid/filter change (at about 60K, I run it about 100K now between changes). I use Amsoil synthetic ATF and WIX filters in the tranny. At the 2nd change it had about 1/3 the amount of dust on the magnets in the pan that it did on the first change when it had the factory fluid. Been that way ever since. I just changed it for the 3rd and most likely the last time before I trade it in.</p><p></p><p>I change my oil about every 10K to 12K now days but I have ran the premium Amsoil 0W30 synthetic 30K between changes (yes you read that right). But the car gets more in-town stop and go driving now when it used to be almost all hwy miles. I figure it deserves TLC a little more often now anyway.</p><p></p><p>I use the Amsoil filters and synthetic engine oil. I know that I could yank the intake off and it would have ZERO sludge in the heads and lifter gallery. It didn't have any at all at 175K when I changed the gaskets. The stuff flat works and it's in everything I own.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Shadowrider, post: 1297284, member: 3099"] I am an Amsoil dealer. I could recommend SeaFoam for most of it's INTENDED uses when used as directed. But I've always used Amsoil's Engine Flush (and only once when installing Amsoil in an engine for the 1st time that has some miles on it when I don't know the oil change history) and I use the Amsoil Performance Improver (PI) in my gas. I don't use that every 4000 miles like they say only about every 6000 or so. If you buy only 7-11 and WalMart gas you need to run a cleaner through about like this. If you buy almost exclusively top tier fuels they are rarely if ever needed. As to transmission flushes the change machines are great, but as said they don't address the filter at all. This is critical, drop the pan and change the filter. The clutches slip when they don't get enough pressure through the valve body. Filter plugging is what causes this pressure drop. And ATF has everything it needs in the bottle with it. No need for Lucas anything IMO. And I've read the test reports. Ditto for engine oil. It has all the additives, detergents, friction modifiers, etc. that are needed and you can actually degrade these by adding the aftermarket additives. What you need are good quality filters and regular fluid changes. I have almost 240,000 on my Monte Carlo SS. No transmission changes, valve jobs, or anything. The only thing I've replaced is the catalytic converter and I just had that done recently, and the intake gaskets at about 175K. Everything else has been routine, plugs, wires and such. And it still gets 24 MPG and the tranny shifts as good as did at the first fluid/filter change (at about 60K, I run it about 100K now between changes). I use Amsoil synthetic ATF and WIX filters in the tranny. At the 2nd change it had about 1/3 the amount of dust on the magnets in the pan that it did on the first change when it had the factory fluid. Been that way ever since. I just changed it for the 3rd and most likely the last time before I trade it in. I change my oil about every 10K to 12K now days but I have ran the premium Amsoil 0W30 synthetic 30K between changes (yes you read that right). But the car gets more in-town stop and go driving now when it used to be almost all hwy miles. I figure it deserves TLC a little more often now anyway. I use the Amsoil filters and synthetic engine oil. I know that I could yank the intake off and it would have ZERO sludge in the heads and lifter gallery. It didn't have any at all at 175K when I changed the gaskets. The stuff flat works and it's in everything I own. [/QUOTE]
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