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The Water Cooler
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Good Glass
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<blockquote data-quote="UnSafe" data-source="post: 1369524" data-attributes="member: 100"><p>Best glass? You could go on for days and not reach a consensus on that one, but Danny summed it up pretty well. I'd add:</p><p></p><p>1. Don't go any higher than you need in magnification. Higher magnification typically means less bright and more difficult to hold on target from an offhand position. Try hitting a pie plate or target at 200 yd with a 14X scope from a standing, unsupported position. Then crank it down to 4-6X and repeat the shots. High power scopes are for supported shooting. </p><p></p><p>2. Don't fret how low you can get the scope until you measure how high it needs to be for YOUR stock weld. Leupold sells super low (Super expensive)scopes that might need high rings to fit your face which wastes the extra money spent. When you bring your rifle up to position and settle into your personal stock weld, your field of view through the scope should be perfect. If you have to move your face around- Not so good. So, how does this affect scope choice? Some scopes are just not going to fit every shooter/ rifle combo. I had to add an extended rail to the top of my RRA flattop AR Varminter to get the correct relief and height for a VXIII 6.5-20X. For a shooter with a shorter face, this combo (Big belled scope/ stock without drop)would never work without a lot of facial contortioning.</p><p></p><p>3. Good glass ain't cheap. No, I'm not suggesting we all need Nightforce scopes but save money in the long run by waiting and saving up for what you need, instead of going cheap and regretting it later. Sure, that Barska, Simmons or NC Star scope might look cool in the catalog, but for other than a .22 plinker or midday short range deer gun they waste ammo. </p><p></p><p>Comparing multiple scopes in waning light is a good way to help the decision- Basspro shops are big enough to pick out a darker corner across the store.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="UnSafe, post: 1369524, member: 100"] Best glass? You could go on for days and not reach a consensus on that one, but Danny summed it up pretty well. I'd add: 1. Don't go any higher than you need in magnification. Higher magnification typically means less bright and more difficult to hold on target from an offhand position. Try hitting a pie plate or target at 200 yd with a 14X scope from a standing, unsupported position. Then crank it down to 4-6X and repeat the shots. High power scopes are for supported shooting. 2. Don't fret how low you can get the scope until you measure how high it needs to be for YOUR stock weld. Leupold sells super low (Super expensive)scopes that might need high rings to fit your face which wastes the extra money spent. When you bring your rifle up to position and settle into your personal stock weld, your field of view through the scope should be perfect. If you have to move your face around- Not so good. So, how does this affect scope choice? Some scopes are just not going to fit every shooter/ rifle combo. I had to add an extended rail to the top of my RRA flattop AR Varminter to get the correct relief and height for a VXIII 6.5-20X. For a shooter with a shorter face, this combo (Big belled scope/ stock without drop)would never work without a lot of facial contortioning. 3. Good glass ain't cheap. No, I'm not suggesting we all need Nightforce scopes but save money in the long run by waiting and saving up for what you need, instead of going cheap and regretting it later. Sure, that Barska, Simmons or NC Star scope might look cool in the catalog, but for other than a .22 plinker or midday short range deer gun they waste ammo. Comparing multiple scopes in waning light is a good way to help the decision- Basspro shops are big enough to pick out a darker corner across the store. [/QUOTE]
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