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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
How do you decide which max load is the real max load?
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<blockquote data-quote="Blitzfike" data-source="post: 1420805" data-attributes="member: 807"><p>I look for pressure signs, flattened primers, cratered primers, and in extreme cases, loose primer pockets. I ALWAYS use a chronograph when working up loads and use the published velocities as a benchmark for my development. I usually stop when approaching factory velocities, except when working up loads for pistol caliber carbines with slower burning powder. I can usually exceed the published velocities by 2 or 3 hundred fps by using a slower powder in a carbine length barrel while still keeping pressure signs in the normal range. Pressure spikes can occurr with very small changes in powder charge or seating depth. Bullets with more bearing surface or harder jacket material can also boost pressures. If you have someone close to you who is an experienced reloader, get with them and have them show you what to look for in pressure signs. Good luck and be safe.. Blitzfike</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Blitzfike, post: 1420805, member: 807"] I look for pressure signs, flattened primers, cratered primers, and in extreme cases, loose primer pockets. I ALWAYS use a chronograph when working up loads and use the published velocities as a benchmark for my development. I usually stop when approaching factory velocities, except when working up loads for pistol caliber carbines with slower burning powder. I can usually exceed the published velocities by 2 or 3 hundred fps by using a slower powder in a carbine length barrel while still keeping pressure signs in the normal range. Pressure spikes can occurr with very small changes in powder charge or seating depth. Bullets with more bearing surface or harder jacket material can also boost pressures. If you have someone close to you who is an experienced reloader, get with them and have them show you what to look for in pressure signs. Good luck and be safe.. Blitzfike [/QUOTE]
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