I think I hold the record on OSA for...

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O4L

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There's was just enough room to get an drill on them to tighten them down in the corners. I used sleeved anchor bolts to secure it to the slab. When those bolts tighten down they flare out and are designed to be permanent.

View attachment 202485

Luckily, I have no immediate plans of moving, so right now it's not an issue for me, lol.
It won't help you much now but the secret to getting those bolts out of the way is to drill all the way through the slab before you install them. When you want to get rid of them you just drive them down and plug the hole.
 

MacFromOK

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There's was just enough room to get an drill on them to tighten them down in the corners. I used sleeved anchor bolts to secure it to the slab. When those bolts tighten down they flare out and are designed to be permanent.

View attachment 202485

Luckily, I have no immediate plans of moving, so right now it's not an issue for me, lol.
The sleeve/nut part flares out so it will be snug in the hole and not turn while tightening, nor be able to be pulled out while tight.

if the sleeve won't turn, they should allow removal of the bolt. If not, the whole thing may rotate in the hole.

Here's hopin' ya don't have to find out anytime soon... :D
:drunk2:
 

StLPro2A

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If I ever move, I fear the PITA it will be to get my main safe unbolted from the slab floor. It's been secured with anchor bolts, and there isn't any room to speak of to get a grinder on them or a breaker bar. The bolts are in the far corners and there was barely enough room to get the drill in there when bolting it down years ago. Maybe something like a big air chisel would do the job, who knows. I'll probably just try and add extra $$ to the asking price of the house and buy a new safe if I move.
You might break the anchor bolts off by over torquing......yeah, we've all done that where not intended :) :) :).....the anchor bolts. Use a large impact wrench and impact socket.

Alternately, a pry bar/Johnson bar on outside of safe can be used to creep safe up slightly......anchor bolt nuts removed first....DUH. Add shims under safe and keep working upward at each corner using larger cribbing material as it rises. Once safe is clear of bolts, slide safe over cribbing material until clear of bolts. Done this many times. Pry bar/Johnson bar will work wonders. Alternately, can also use hydraulic jack inside safe sitting on 4x lumber/frame sitting on top of anchor bolts/nuts to jack safe upward from the inside.....anchor nuts removed again. Use 4x frame/lumber resting on top of anchor bolts/nuts; hydraulic jack sits on wood frame; length of 4x material length sized to reach inside top of safe; actuate jack to pick safe up, jacking in small increments, blocking beneath safe on outside as you go. Can use 2 to four jacks to lift squarely. Use steel plate/2x lumber to protect fireboard on safe roof. Insert cribbing material underneath safe outside. Depending upon the access to the bolts/their extension above safe floor, may need threaded couplings (available at Home Depot type stores...hex metal drilled/threaded through center....used to connect two threaded rods/bolts) to provide bearing surface or to connect longer bolts for extra height. .A little thinking/creativity will solve most problems.
 
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killerpigeon

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My personal best is three different ones in eight hours. But, two guns in three hours otherwise. Haven't matched that since.
 

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