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The Water Cooler
General Discussion
I think I hold the record on OSA for...
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<blockquote data-quote="StLPro2A" data-source="post: 3613522" data-attributes="member: 48052"><p>You might break the anchor bolts off by over torquing......yeah, we've all done that where not intended <img src="/images/smilies/smile.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-shortname=":)" /> <img src="/images/smilies/smile.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-shortname=":)" /> <img src="/images/smilies/smile.png" class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":)" title="Smile :)" data-shortname=":)" />.....the anchor bolts. Use a large impact wrench and impact socket.</p><p></p><p>Alternately, a pry bar/Johnson bar on outside of safe can be used to creep safe up slightly......anchor bolt nuts removed first....DUH. Add shims under safe and keep working upward at each corner using larger cribbing material as it rises. Once safe is clear of bolts, slide safe over cribbing material until clear of bolts. Done this many times. Pry bar/Johnson bar will work wonders. Alternately, can also use hydraulic jack inside safe sitting on 4x lumber/frame sitting on top of anchor bolts/nuts to jack safe upward from the inside.....anchor nuts removed again. Use 4x frame/lumber resting on top of anchor bolts/nuts; hydraulic jack sits on wood frame; length of 4x material length sized to reach inside top of safe; actuate jack to pick safe up, jacking in small increments, blocking beneath safe on outside as you go. Can use 2 to four jacks to lift squarely. Use steel plate/2x lumber to protect fireboard on safe roof. Insert cribbing material underneath safe outside. Depending upon the access to the bolts/their extension above safe floor, may need threaded couplings (available at Home Depot type stores...hex metal drilled/threaded through center....used to connect two threaded rods/bolts) to provide bearing surface or to connect longer bolts for extra height. .A little thinking/creativity will solve most problems.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="StLPro2A, post: 3613522, member: 48052"] You might break the anchor bolts off by over torquing......yeah, we've all done that where not intended :) :) :).....the anchor bolts. Use a large impact wrench and impact socket. Alternately, a pry bar/Johnson bar on outside of safe can be used to creep safe up slightly......anchor bolt nuts removed first....DUH. Add shims under safe and keep working upward at each corner using larger cribbing material as it rises. Once safe is clear of bolts, slide safe over cribbing material until clear of bolts. Done this many times. Pry bar/Johnson bar will work wonders. Alternately, can also use hydraulic jack inside safe sitting on 4x lumber/frame sitting on top of anchor bolts/nuts to jack safe upward from the inside.....anchor nuts removed again. Use 4x frame/lumber resting on top of anchor bolts/nuts; hydraulic jack sits on wood frame; length of 4x material length sized to reach inside top of safe; actuate jack to pick safe up, jacking in small increments, blocking beneath safe on outside as you go. Can use 2 to four jacks to lift squarely. Use steel plate/2x lumber to protect fireboard on safe roof. Insert cribbing material underneath safe outside. Depending upon the access to the bolts/their extension above safe floor, may need threaded couplings (available at Home Depot type stores...hex metal drilled/threaded through center....used to connect two threaded rods/bolts) to provide bearing surface or to connect longer bolts for extra height. .A little thinking/creativity will solve most problems. [/QUOTE]
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