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How inexpensive Kenny? I have a CVA Bobcat that is unfired. Free if you come get it. You’re probably looking for an inline but there’s something cool about the ol cap ‘n’ ball.
I’ve got a free one for you. I’ll be in Ponca This weekend
Lets have a party!!
I’ll be in Ponca on Saturday, likely for most of the day
CVA Bobcat
CVA has been criticized for their proofing choices (using the lowest pressures allowed),
The usual rules apply -
Verify its uncapped and not charged when you take possession. Check the lock and put the ram rod down the barrel. Note the inserted length and then compare the length of the rod in the bore to the distance from the muzzle to the nipple. They should be more or less the same on a CVA. If there is something in the bore you did not put in, don't try to shoot it out. If you don't know the safe ways to clear it, ask or take it to a pro.
check the owner's manuals for appropriate loads, don't guess with a CVA. There maximums tend to be lighter than other makers.
Here is the old CVA sidelock manual
Keep in mind that pellets are really intended for in-line guns, not sidelocks, and depending on the era of the muzzle loader, the rifling may not be well suited for sabots. There are a variety of powder options available. Follow instructions.
CVA's typically use a #11 cap from the factory, but musket nipples are available. The musket cap is larger and seems to give more reliable ignition on my guns, assuming the hammer will fall over it. The #11 cap is easier to find in stores. If the cap binds going onto the nipple, the nipple is probably damaged by dry firing, and you need to replace it.
Minimum kit
Gun
Powder measure,
Powder flask
Caps
Projectile with appropriate patching/sabot/etc.
Short starter
Cleaning jag that fits the bore
Nipple wrench.
Patch worm
Remember, most muzzle loading accessories like jags and worms fit the threads in the ram rod, not the threads in your rifle cleaning kit.
Check how it shoots before muzzle loading season opens.
CVA has been criticized for their proofing choices (using the lowest pressures allowed),
The usual rules apply -
Verify its uncapped and not charged when you take possession. Check the lock and put the ram rod down the barrel. Note the inserted length and then compare the length of the rod in the bore to the distance from the muzzle to the nipple. They should be more or less the same on a CVA. If there is something in the bore you did not put in, don't try to shoot it out. If you don't know the safe ways to clear it, ask or take it to a pro.
check the owner's manuals for appropriate loads, don't guess with a CVA. There maximums tend to be lighter than other makers.
Here is the old CVA sidelock manual
Keep in mind that pellets are really intended for in-line guns, not sidelocks, and depending on the era of the muzzle loader, the rifling may not be well suited for sabots. There are a variety of powder options available. Follow instructions.
CVA's typically use a #11 cap from the factory, but musket nipples are available. The musket cap is larger and seems to give more reliable ignition on my guns, assuming the hammer will fall over it. The #11 cap is easier to find in stores. If the cap binds going onto the nipple, the nipple is probably damaged by dry firing, and you need to replace it.
Minimum kit
Gun
Powder measure,
Powder flask
Caps
Projectile with appropriate patching/sabot/etc.
Short starter
Cleaning jag that fits the bore
Nipple wrench.
Patch worm
Remember, most muzzle loading accessories like jags and worms fit the threads in the ram rod, not the threads in your rifle cleaning kit.
Check how it shoots before muzzle loading season opens.
I have 2 Bobcats and at one time they called them another name.
Amazingly accurate with 295gr Powerbelt Copper plated hollow point.
70-90 gr is all you will ever need.
90 is max for best accuracy in mine Pyrodex RS.
That stuff is dirty as you know and if you pour the powder in then tamp the butt on the top of your boot about 7 times the powder will settle in the base and turn the corner and get under the nipple.
Seat bullet firmly NO pounding on it.
Now remove nipple and make sure there is powder under it if yes put back together and cap it.
If no then trickle some grains into the hole the nipple screws into and then install nipple.
My Bobcats shoot fast only 1 boom none of that click boom stuff from delayed ignition and the key is tamping and removing the nipple and make sure powder is under it.
Front blade is too tall for 100 yards and will need filed down on it.
But that brass blade is held in place by a tiny stem and is easily broken off.
Recoil on that super light rifle is fun and will give you a punch to the cheek if you get a solid cheek weld.
It will clover leaf the above load.
TC1000 bore butter is HORRIBLE and if you use it then expect a crud ring in your rifle a few inches above the load which makes follow up shots hard to seat the bullet.
I use Beeswax mixed with coconut oil in a pan and warmed until incorporated.
I soak patches in it and use that for lube.
I just recently after 15 years of using pyrodex found out it will rust barrels but 777 not so much.
You may know all this.
That is all I got on the bobcat rifles.
I really like mine.
Amazingly accurate with 295gr Powerbelt Copper plated hollow point.
70-90 gr is all you will ever need.
90 is max for best accuracy in mine Pyrodex RS.
That stuff is dirty as you know and if you pour the powder in then tamp the butt on the top of your boot about 7 times the powder will settle in the base and turn the corner and get under the nipple.
Seat bullet firmly NO pounding on it.
Now remove nipple and make sure there is powder under it if yes put back together and cap it.
If no then trickle some grains into the hole the nipple screws into and then install nipple.
My Bobcats shoot fast only 1 boom none of that click boom stuff from delayed ignition and the key is tamping and removing the nipple and make sure powder is under it.
Front blade is too tall for 100 yards and will need filed down on it.
But that brass blade is held in place by a tiny stem and is easily broken off.
Recoil on that super light rifle is fun and will give you a punch to the cheek if you get a solid cheek weld.
It will clover leaf the above load.
TC1000 bore butter is HORRIBLE and if you use it then expect a crud ring in your rifle a few inches above the load which makes follow up shots hard to seat the bullet.
I use Beeswax mixed with coconut oil in a pan and warmed until incorporated.
I soak patches in it and use that for lube.
I just recently after 15 years of using pyrodex found out it will rust barrels but 777 not so much.
You may know all this.
That is all I got on the bobcat rifles.
I really like mine.
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