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<blockquote data-quote="Ahall" data-source="post: 4340178" data-attributes="member: 49426"><p>CVA Bobcat</p><p>CVA has been criticized for their proofing choices (using the lowest pressures allowed),</p><p> </p><p>The usual rules apply - </p><p>Verify its uncapped and not charged when you take possession. Check the lock and put the ram rod down the barrel. Note the inserted length and then compare the length of the rod in the bore to the distance from the muzzle to the nipple. They should be more or less the same on a CVA. If there is something in the bore you did not put in, don't try to shoot it out. If you don't know the safe ways to clear it, ask or take it to a pro. </p><p></p><p>check the owner's manuals for appropriate loads, don't guess with a CVA. There maximums tend to be lighter than other makers. </p><p>Here is the old CVA sidelock manual</p><p>[URL unfurl="true"]https://www.deercreekproducts.net/uploads/3/7/5/3/37535295/sidelock_manual.pdf[/URL]</p><p></p><p>Keep in mind that pellets are really intended for in-line guns, not sidelocks, and depending on the era of the muzzle loader, the rifling may not be well suited for sabots. There are a variety of powder options available. Follow instructions. </p><p></p><p>CVA's typically use a #11 cap from the factory, but musket nipples are available. The musket cap is larger and seems to give more reliable ignition on my guns, assuming the hammer will fall over it. The #11 cap is easier to find in stores. If the cap binds going onto the nipple, the nipple is probably damaged by dry firing, and you need to replace it. </p><p></p><p>Minimum kit</p><p>Gun</p><p>Powder measure,</p><p>Powder flask</p><p>Caps</p><p>Projectile with appropriate patching/sabot/etc.</p><p>Short starter</p><p></p><p>Cleaning jag that fits the bore</p><p>Nipple wrench.</p><p>Patch worm</p><p></p><p>Remember, most muzzle loading accessories like jags and worms fit the threads in the ram rod, not the threads in your rifle cleaning kit.</p><p></p><p>Check how it shoots before muzzle loading season opens.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Ahall, post: 4340178, member: 49426"] CVA Bobcat CVA has been criticized for their proofing choices (using the lowest pressures allowed), The usual rules apply - Verify its uncapped and not charged when you take possession. Check the lock and put the ram rod down the barrel. Note the inserted length and then compare the length of the rod in the bore to the distance from the muzzle to the nipple. They should be more or less the same on a CVA. If there is something in the bore you did not put in, don't try to shoot it out. If you don't know the safe ways to clear it, ask or take it to a pro. check the owner's manuals for appropriate loads, don't guess with a CVA. There maximums tend to be lighter than other makers. Here is the old CVA sidelock manual [URL unfurl="true"]https://www.deercreekproducts.net/uploads/3/7/5/3/37535295/sidelock_manual.pdf[/URL] Keep in mind that pellets are really intended for in-line guns, not sidelocks, and depending on the era of the muzzle loader, the rifling may not be well suited for sabots. There are a variety of powder options available. Follow instructions. CVA's typically use a #11 cap from the factory, but musket nipples are available. The musket cap is larger and seems to give more reliable ignition on my guns, assuming the hammer will fall over it. The #11 cap is easier to find in stores. If the cap binds going onto the nipple, the nipple is probably damaged by dry firing, and you need to replace it. Minimum kit Gun Powder measure, Powder flask Caps Projectile with appropriate patching/sabot/etc. Short starter Cleaning jag that fits the bore Nipple wrench. Patch worm Remember, most muzzle loading accessories like jags and worms fit the threads in the ram rod, not the threads in your rifle cleaning kit. Check how it shoots before muzzle loading season opens. [/QUOTE]
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