I'm looking for a good knife sharpening system/ceramic rods that won't break the bank.
Been pretty happy with my Syderco
I keep one of these on my desk. About 2 minutes of use periodically keeps my pocket knife razor sharp.
Looks like a goodun! Thanks!
I have one of these I'd make you a deal on 
They're pretty nifty for what they are. Like, I wouldn't run my Wusthof and Shun blades on it, but pocket knives are a breeze to touch up.
They're pretty nifty for what they are. Like, I wouldn't run my Wusthof and Shun blades on it, but pocket knives are a breeze to touch up.
No experience with it, but this is one that gets good reviews and I am considering it for myself.
This is the same (although newer version) sharpener that I use and I've had it for about 15 years now. It keeps all of my pocket and kitchen knives dangerously sharp. Just like I like them.
I have one of these I'd make you a deal on
Thanks, but I think I'm gonna go with the one that tynyphil suggested.
Understand --- I've got that an an 15XV model as far as electrics which both work well. But I also have 2 sets of Japanese water stones that I use for my fancier blades.Thanks, but I think I'm gonna go with the one that tynyphil suggested.
Sharpening systems.
Many are over marketed hype....
Something as simple as a block of hard wood with lapping paste worked into the surface is a fine sharpening tool if the edge is no in bad shape. It's also a great way to sharpen irregular shaped blades like gouges.
The objective is to develop a uniform wedge on the edge of a piece of steel, rather than a bunch of microscopic nicks with blunt ends where the scratches intersect.
All you are doing is polishing with finer and finer grits so that the scratches from the current grit remove the scratches left by the prior grit until you get to something that will actually cut. If you can't shave with it, you have not done it right.
Round stones apply the load to a very small area and cut faster, but ware out faster.
Diamond lasts longer, stays sharp longer and costs more
Soft stones ware faster and cut faster than hard ones because they expose new sharp grains faster.
In my opinion, get the blade sharp with any basic technique (emery paper stuck to plate glass with double sided tape is fine), and then put some money into the final grit or two, and touch it up regularly.
I keep a stone on my work bench and touch up my tools every few minutes of carving.
Dont use oil on water stones or vise versa- the residue can leave a hard to remove film on the stone that prevents contact with the cutting grit.
Dont use oils that evaporate or thicken quickly (vegitable oils) for the same reason.
Diamond plates can be used to dress other types of stone damaged by these blunders.
Do take the time to develop the hand eye coordination needed to keep your blade consistently aligned with the cutting surface.
Work through progressively finer grits with dull blades until you reach the final polish. Once the edge is reformed and sharp, keep it that way. Its faster to touch up regularly and you get better cutting action from a sharp tool.
You don't need to spend a fortune on jigs, they are just a shortcut if you don't want to take the time to develop hand skills.
Many are over marketed hype....
Something as simple as a block of hard wood with lapping paste worked into the surface is a fine sharpening tool if the edge is no in bad shape. It's also a great way to sharpen irregular shaped blades like gouges.
The objective is to develop a uniform wedge on the edge of a piece of steel, rather than a bunch of microscopic nicks with blunt ends where the scratches intersect.
All you are doing is polishing with finer and finer grits so that the scratches from the current grit remove the scratches left by the prior grit until you get to something that will actually cut. If you can't shave with it, you have not done it right.
Round stones apply the load to a very small area and cut faster, but ware out faster.
Diamond lasts longer, stays sharp longer and costs more
Soft stones ware faster and cut faster than hard ones because they expose new sharp grains faster.
In my opinion, get the blade sharp with any basic technique (emery paper stuck to plate glass with double sided tape is fine), and then put some money into the final grit or two, and touch it up regularly.
I keep a stone on my work bench and touch up my tools every few minutes of carving.
Dont use oil on water stones or vise versa- the residue can leave a hard to remove film on the stone that prevents contact with the cutting grit.
Dont use oils that evaporate or thicken quickly (vegitable oils) for the same reason.
Diamond plates can be used to dress other types of stone damaged by these blunders.
Do take the time to develop the hand eye coordination needed to keep your blade consistently aligned with the cutting surface.
Work through progressively finer grits with dull blades until you reach the final polish. Once the edge is reformed and sharp, keep it that way. Its faster to touch up regularly and you get better cutting action from a sharp tool.
You don't need to spend a fortune on jigs, they are just a shortcut if you don't want to take the time to develop hand skills.
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