Knife sharpening

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Crosstimbers Okie

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I've been using Lanskey products for about 20 years. All of my knives stay razor-sharp, which is the only way to have a knife as far as I'm concerned. With a little practice these products will get it done at reasonable cost.

For profiling a new blade or putting an edge on a dull blade:

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Lansky-Standard-Diamond-System-P156.aspx

For touching up a blade or the final stages of sharpening after using the above product:

http://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Lansky-Turn-Box-Knife-Sharpener-P105.aspx
 

pow

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I think I poorly articulated the last portion of my question. Obviously everyone will want it to be as sharp as possible. I was thinking more along the type of edge you are putting on the blade. A razor edge that would be good for filleting or shaving vs something a bit rougher, for cutting a piece of rope.
 

Rod Snell

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I think I poorly articulated the last portion of my question. Obviously everyone will want it to be as sharp as possible. I was thinking more along the type of edge you are putting on the blade. A razor edge that would be good for filleting or shaving vs something a bit rougher, for cutting a piece of rope.
The angle of the bevel to the edge is what changes for making the edge more suitable for rough work than fine cuts like shaving. On a 2-blade trapper, I keep one blade at 15 degrees for a razor-like sharpness, and the other at 30 degrees for rougher duty. When I sharpened my hatchet last week, the angle to the blade was even more to get more steel behind the edge, suitable for chopping wood, not for shaving.

Some of us just eyeball the angle after doing it for decades, but there are sharpening rigs available with adjustable angle settings.
 

randallss7

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What does you knife sharpening setup looking? How sharp do you prefer for a utility type knife?


I think he may be asking more about edge geometry, more so than proper sharpening procedures where you end up with a properly sharpened polished edge. I make and sharpen knives at several different angles depending on how I'm going to use them or how I perceived how they will be used. General rule of thumb but in no way law,I do 25 degrees for heavy use, some go as much as 30 degrees depends on quality of steel also. 20ish degrees for utility type/heavy hunting knife with good steel of course and around 17 degrees for top quality hunting knives with better steel and kitchen knives. With that said a lot of scandi grind knives come in at around 11 have a more than razor sharp edge good for wood work and stuff like that but the edge is so thin they cant really hold up as long as the same steel with a less aggressive angle. With that said at any angle you need to start with a good bur edge and work your way to a mirror polish on the edge if you want to achieve the sharpest edge possible at any angel. I can polish a 25 degree edge to shave arm hair "hair popping" sharp and it gets "sharper" from there at cost of edge retention right, its a science like anything else and nothing is free the thinner the edge the sharper the knife the more delicate the edge becomes, so you have to balance it on what you want to do with the knife.
 

Crosstimbers Okie

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I profile all of my edges at 30 degrees. It's the most durable edge I can get and it's still razor-sharp when properly polished. I use it for every knife that I own, from 3 inch folders all the way up to my 9 1/4 inch Becker BK-9 Combat Bowie.

The only exception is for fillet knives on which I want the thinnest edge possible. But, I've never needed to do more than a touch-up with ceramic sticks to maintain a fillet knife. They just don't get used that hard.
 

Mr.Glock

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I profile all of my edges at 30 degrees. It's the most durable edge I can get and it's still razor-sharp when properly polished. I use it for every knife that I own, from 3 inch folders all the way up to my 9 1/4 inch Becker BK-9 Combat Bowie.

The only exception is for fillet knives on which I want the thinnest edge possible. But, I've never needed to do more than a touch-up with ceramic sticks to maintain a fillet knife. They just don't get used that hard.


I am with you.

I keep all mine at 30 degrees as well. Grew up rendering beef and was taught 30 degrees, last longer when working, easy to strap it while working. Just overall a good degree.
 

frankos72

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I use a paper wheel setup. Shooting for 35 inclusive, but the wheels aren't exactly precise. Gotta be razor sharp. I cut a lot of boxes. I touch up weekly. Takes about 2 minutes.
 

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