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The Water Cooler
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Lawn mower issues . . . any small engine mechanics here?
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<blockquote data-quote="Rez Exelon" data-source="post: 3381993" data-attributes="member: 5800"><p>So first things first, make sure that the parking brake is set, the PTO is disengaged, and any other typical safety mechanisms are satisfied. As has been said already in the thread, it's worthwhile at this stage to attempt to spin the engine by hand by turning the debris guard over the flywheel to make sure the engine isn't locked up. From there, there's only a few items to check in that circuit:</p><p>1. Ignition switch</p><p>2. Battery</p><p>3. Solenoid</p><p>4. Starter</p><p></p><p>I list the switch because although it doesn't fail much, it is a possible point of failure. I don't have the 1050 wiring memorized or handy but there are ways to test that ---- I'd just do it last since in my experience it's not a common failure point.</p><p></p><p>Moving on, testing the battery with a meter is good, but if it drops instantly when you turn the key, then its possibly needing to be replaced. On the other hand, you can hook some jumper cables to it from a donor vehicle or a jump start box to kind of compensate for this. If that works, then I'd replace the battery first. If that's no help I'd move on. </p><p></p><p>Testing the solenoid is pretty easy --- turn the key on and bridge the terminals with a (preferably but optionally) insulated screwdriver. Be warned this will spark and make you want to jump. If that causes the engine to turn over, then replace it --- about $15 on most models.</p><p></p><p>The starter is also possible to test --- it's easier if it's off the mower IMHO, but I don't know how much of a PITA that is for the 1050. If you get it out on the ground run some jumper cables to it from a donor battery (or even the one directly on the mower). Black goes to a grounded metal part of the case, and red goes to the small post where the wire from the solenoid would attach. Black first, then red. If that causes the starter up then maybe the ignition switch is faulty.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Rez Exelon, post: 3381993, member: 5800"] So first things first, make sure that the parking brake is set, the PTO is disengaged, and any other typical safety mechanisms are satisfied. As has been said already in the thread, it's worthwhile at this stage to attempt to spin the engine by hand by turning the debris guard over the flywheel to make sure the engine isn't locked up. From there, there's only a few items to check in that circuit: 1. Ignition switch 2. Battery 3. Solenoid 4. Starter I list the switch because although it doesn't fail much, it is a possible point of failure. I don't have the 1050 wiring memorized or handy but there are ways to test that ---- I'd just do it last since in my experience it's not a common failure point. Moving on, testing the battery with a meter is good, but if it drops instantly when you turn the key, then its possibly needing to be replaced. On the other hand, you can hook some jumper cables to it from a donor vehicle or a jump start box to kind of compensate for this. If that works, then I'd replace the battery first. If that's no help I'd move on. Testing the solenoid is pretty easy --- turn the key on and bridge the terminals with a (preferably but optionally) insulated screwdriver. Be warned this will spark and make you want to jump. If that causes the engine to turn over, then replace it --- about $15 on most models. The starter is also possible to test --- it's easier if it's off the mower IMHO, but I don't know how much of a PITA that is for the 1050. If you get it out on the ground run some jumper cables to it from a donor battery (or even the one directly on the mower). Black goes to a grounded metal part of the case, and red goes to the small post where the wire from the solenoid would attach. Black first, then red. If that causes the starter up then maybe the ignition switch is faulty. [/QUOTE]
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