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The Water Cooler
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My big knife
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<blockquote data-quote="randallss7" data-source="post: 2154583" data-attributes="member: 24507"><p>here is my process very similar possibly a few more steps:</p><p>1st thing I do is grind the shape, edge then hand sand to 220 grit to remove any grind marks</p><p>2nd, normilize the steel, bring steel up to just above critical temperature then let air cool, this helps relieve any stress and helps with smaller grain. let cool to room temperature</p><p>3rd, I slowly heat it to critical temperate in my forge, and I do mean slowly this knife took 20 minutes to get where I wanted it then let it soak for another 10 or so, this also helps keep the blade a uniform temperature you know the edge the same color as the spine etc. You cant just turn on forge full blast then you cant soak without over heating or over heating the edge and under heating the thicker parts, over heating is a bad thing.</p><p>4, I take the evenly heated blade straight way from the forge and quench it in Chevron quench oil (its worth the money 50.00 a gallon) I move the blade up and down, never swirl.</p><p>5, I take the blade straight way to the ready tempering oven, I use different temperatures to achieve different hardness's any where from 250 to 500 hundred degrees for 3 cycles at 1.5hours each. You need to do this quickly as the hardened steel is in a very stressed right now and is looking for relief (stress cracks).</p><p></p><p>I do all my blades like that, then if I want to soften the spine I will put edge in water and use torch to take spine to a blue color. I then polish or sand blast or what ever i'm going to do the the knife.</p><p></p><p>that's kind of it in a nut shell.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="randallss7, post: 2154583, member: 24507"] here is my process very similar possibly a few more steps: 1st thing I do is grind the shape, edge then hand sand to 220 grit to remove any grind marks 2nd, normilize the steel, bring steel up to just above critical temperature then let air cool, this helps relieve any stress and helps with smaller grain. let cool to room temperature 3rd, I slowly heat it to critical temperate in my forge, and I do mean slowly this knife took 20 minutes to get where I wanted it then let it soak for another 10 or so, this also helps keep the blade a uniform temperature you know the edge the same color as the spine etc. You cant just turn on forge full blast then you cant soak without over heating or over heating the edge and under heating the thicker parts, over heating is a bad thing. 4, I take the evenly heated blade straight way from the forge and quench it in Chevron quench oil (its worth the money 50.00 a gallon) I move the blade up and down, never swirl. 5, I take the blade straight way to the ready tempering oven, I use different temperatures to achieve different hardness's any where from 250 to 500 hundred degrees for 3 cycles at 1.5hours each. You need to do this quickly as the hardened steel is in a very stressed right now and is looking for relief (stress cracks). I do all my blades like that, then if I want to soften the spine I will put edge in water and use torch to take spine to a blue color. I then polish or sand blast or what ever i'm going to do the the knife. that's kind of it in a nut shell. [/QUOTE]
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