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<blockquote data-quote="SlugSlinger" data-source="post: 3386307" data-attributes="member: 7248"><p>I’m debating on starting with the factory steering and tying the ford drag link end with a Jeep drop pitman arm.</p><p></p><p>There’s a couple aftermarket options. Weld on steering arms, having the knuckle top machined to accept top mounted steering arms or Reid racing knuckles with top mounted steering arms.</p><p></p><p>My primary issue with all the after market alternatives is wheel clearance. Maximum backspacing is 4.25”. I think I want to run as much backspacing as possible to lessen the extra axle width. 71.25” WMS with the Ford vs. 65.5” with the JK axles. Measuring my factory JK wheels, there is 6" of backspacing. The factory Ford steel wheel backspacing is 5.75". I am already gaining 6" of extra axle width. I found some cheap factory steel wheels to use for weld on beadlocks if I end up going that direction.</p><p></p><p>Another issue is the tierod attachment. The tie rod will interfere with the differential cover. You cannot run a straight tie rod in the factory location without it hitting the cover.</p><p>Weld-on:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]166999[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Machining the Knuckle:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]167002[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Reid Racing:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]167005[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SlugSlinger, post: 3386307, member: 7248"] I’m debating on starting with the factory steering and tying the ford drag link end with a Jeep drop pitman arm. There’s a couple aftermarket options. Weld on steering arms, having the knuckle top machined to accept top mounted steering arms or Reid racing knuckles with top mounted steering arms. My primary issue with all the after market alternatives is wheel clearance. Maximum backspacing is 4.25”. I think I want to run as much backspacing as possible to lessen the extra axle width. 71.25” WMS with the Ford vs. 65.5” with the JK axles. Measuring my factory JK wheels, there is 6" of backspacing. The factory Ford steel wheel backspacing is 5.75". I am already gaining 6" of extra axle width. I found some cheap factory steel wheels to use for weld on beadlocks if I end up going that direction. Another issue is the tierod attachment. The tie rod will interfere with the differential cover. You cannot run a straight tie rod in the factory location without it hitting the cover. Weld-on: [ATTACH=full]166999[/ATTACH] Machining the Knuckle: [ATTACH=full]167002[/ATTACH] Reid Racing: [ATTACH=full]167005[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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