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The Water Cooler
General Discussion
New Watch Rebuild – Stunning 70's Seiko Bullhead – Dual Register Chronograph – OSA Owned – Tons Of Pics
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<blockquote data-quote="thor447" data-source="post: 3951426" data-attributes="member: 24867"><p>Before reassembly could begin, there was an upgrade that needed to be done. I had mentioned in the beginning of this saga that there was one weak point in this movement. The weak point is that the barrel arbor port on the rear bridge of this watch is known to wear. On this particular movement, the barrel arbor port on the rear bridge plate is a steel bushing. On 99.9% of all watch movements, the other barrel arbor port towards the front side of the watch is in the main plate. On this watch, there is just a big hole in that position because the barrel arbor extends further out towards the dial side of the watch. This is because of that gear and clutch assembly I spoke of earlier that drives the chronograph hour recording wheel. Because of this, the other barrel arbor port is in the front chronograph plate. Seiko put a jewel in for that bearing, but left the rear bridge barrel arbor port as a steel bushing. Now this watch hadn't run for multiple decades, so the wear on the rear arbor port wasn't really too bad yet, but it is something that happens to all of these movements. As that steel bushing wears out, it causes additional side shake in the barrel. As it gets worse, the barrel sits at an angle, requiring more force to interact with the gear train, lowering the power reserve. Another issue is that the ratchet wheel is attached to the top of the barrel arbor. When the barrel tilts, the ratchet wheel subsequently tilts and eventually starts touching the bridge plate, causing more friction. You can see this on several old watches when you take them apart, and you'll see wear marks underneath the ratchet wheel or crown wheel. This is due to excessive side shake, causing the wheels to rub the plates. I removed that steel bushing for the rear barrel arbor and pressed in a new jewel. After adjusting end shake of the barrel by raising and lowering the jewel (sets how much free play up/down there is when assembled), this fixed what slight issues there were in that watch, and ensures that it will not happen in the future. With regular maintenance once every 6-10 years, it pretty much eliminates that one weak point from surfacing again.</p><p></p><p>Pics of the bushing before being removed.</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]341385[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]341386[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Pressing out bushing</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]341440[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Removed</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]341388[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Pressing in the jewel</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]341389[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Installed</p><p></p><p>[ATTACH=full]341390[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]341391[/ATTACH]</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="thor447, post: 3951426, member: 24867"] Before reassembly could begin, there was an upgrade that needed to be done. I had mentioned in the beginning of this saga that there was one weak point in this movement. The weak point is that the barrel arbor port on the rear bridge of this watch is known to wear. On this particular movement, the barrel arbor port on the rear bridge plate is a steel bushing. On 99.9% of all watch movements, the other barrel arbor port towards the front side of the watch is in the main plate. On this watch, there is just a big hole in that position because the barrel arbor extends further out towards the dial side of the watch. This is because of that gear and clutch assembly I spoke of earlier that drives the chronograph hour recording wheel. Because of this, the other barrel arbor port is in the front chronograph plate. Seiko put a jewel in for that bearing, but left the rear bridge barrel arbor port as a steel bushing. Now this watch hadn't run for multiple decades, so the wear on the rear arbor port wasn't really too bad yet, but it is something that happens to all of these movements. As that steel bushing wears out, it causes additional side shake in the barrel. As it gets worse, the barrel sits at an angle, requiring more force to interact with the gear train, lowering the power reserve. Another issue is that the ratchet wheel is attached to the top of the barrel arbor. When the barrel tilts, the ratchet wheel subsequently tilts and eventually starts touching the bridge plate, causing more friction. You can see this on several old watches when you take them apart, and you'll see wear marks underneath the ratchet wheel or crown wheel. This is due to excessive side shake, causing the wheels to rub the plates. I removed that steel bushing for the rear barrel arbor and pressed in a new jewel. After adjusting end shake of the barrel by raising and lowering the jewel (sets how much free play up/down there is when assembled), this fixed what slight issues there were in that watch, and ensures that it will not happen in the future. With regular maintenance once every 6-10 years, it pretty much eliminates that one weak point from surfacing again. Pics of the bushing before being removed. [ATTACH type="full" alt="28.JPG"]341385[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="29.JPG"]341386[/ATTACH] Pressing out bushing [ATTACH type="full"]341440[/ATTACH] Removed [ATTACH type="full" alt="31.JPG"]341388[/ATTACH] Pressing in the jewel [ATTACH type="full" alt="32.jpg"]341389[/ATTACH] Installed [ATTACH type="full" alt="33.JPG"]341390[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full" alt="34.JPG"]341391[/ATTACH] [/QUOTE]
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