On doing the right thing. If they were both in nice shape I would have contacted customer service to buy the second one but I'm hopelessy addicted. lol
On doing the right thing. If they were both in nice shape I would have contacted customer service to buy the second one but I'm hopelessy addicted. lol
I still have it and it have never fired a round through it. When I bought yours the intent was to sell my other one but since decided to keep it. So the Danish is a spare and I really have no need for two. It's available to anyone who may be interested.
You may want to hang onto that Danish return, because VAR barrels are outstanding in terms of accuracy, more so than just about any other military barrel except maybe the 1960s SA barrels. I can say from first-hand experience it's a great shooter
The specifics on my Garand from CMP:
Barrel, Receiver and Operating Arm - H&R
Hammer and Trigger group - SA
It's on new furniture that has been stained but badly needs to be finished. Going to have to do some research about how to get there. Don't know if it needs tung oil or just a sanding and wax. Will post some poor phone pics of it and my SKS addition purchased from reddog.
Barrel, Receiver and Operating Arm - H&R
Hammer and Trigger group - SA
It's on new furniture that has been stained but badly needs to be finished. Going to have to do some research about how to get there. Don't know if it needs tung oil or just a sanding and wax. Will post some poor phone pics of it and my SKS addition purchased from reddog.
Special thanks to 761mph for showing me the ropes on Garands. Rex has owned them for many years and showed me how to break it down post haste.
Guess I won't be uploading pics. They are jpg files but the uploader says it is an incorrect file extension.
Guess I won't be uploading pics. They are jpg files but the uploader says it is an incorrect file extension.
Decided to keep the HRA, huh? As for the stock refinishing, I highly recommend you visit the CMP forum - there's a scad of info over there on how to refinish a new CMP stock. Personally, I'd look for an HRA stock if I was planning to keep that rifle a long time
Try Photobucket or another free pic hosting web site, and paste the IMG links here. That's what OSA folks do.
I'm going to have to take some decent pics with my wife's Canon Rebel. Those cell phone pics plain suck. Will get that done tomorrow.
That might help
Here's a tip for embedding pics in your post: when you're creating the post, and you get to the spot where you want the pics to appear, click on the icon above the text that looks like a tiny picture with black squares at each corner (hovering your cursor over it shows "Image"). You'll get a popup asking you to insert the URL from the pic - fill that in, and click on OK. Do that for each pic you'd like to post. However, if you have a bunch of pics, you may want to link to the slideshow instead (look in the upper right corner of the Photobucket screen for a Slideshow link to copy and paste to here).Good luck, looking forward to larger pics
Can't quite tell by the photos, but I'm assuming by your description that the stock is a new CMP "pumpkin" birch replacement. I have the correct HRA stock for your rifle, but unfortunately I'm holding onto it until I can find a 1/2" DAS SA to swap it for (for my 5.8 SA).
If you need help with refinishing the stock, just let me know. I am local to Yukon/ Mustang and know you from Deadhorse. If you decide to refinish the stock yourself, be sure to use either an alcohol or water based stain. Birch does not take on oil based stains very well and will leave you with a blotchy, non-uniform finish. The most common dyes that I see used are RIT water based dye, Chestnut Ridge and Fiebings alcohol based dyes. Either BLO or tung oil will work. I normally use BLO since it dries faster and is a little easier to work with. Unfortunately it doesn't dry to a hardened finish as well as tung oil and tends to turn very dark when it begins to oxidize.
Here is a picture from the CMP forums of a birch stock that was refinished using mixture of Fiebings dark brown mixed with a small amount of Chestnut Ridge and topped off with Tom's 1/3 mix. It gives an appearance closer to a dark aged walnut stock.
If that look is too dark, you can always use Fiebings medium brown instead. It is a little closer in color to some of the post war replacement birch stocks that you see. Below is a birch stock that I refinished using this dye, BLO, and Johnson's paste wax. Congrats and good luck.
If you need help with refinishing the stock, just let me know. I am local to Yukon/ Mustang and know you from Deadhorse. If you decide to refinish the stock yourself, be sure to use either an alcohol or water based stain. Birch does not take on oil based stains very well and will leave you with a blotchy, non-uniform finish. The most common dyes that I see used are RIT water based dye, Chestnut Ridge and Fiebings alcohol based dyes. Either BLO or tung oil will work. I normally use BLO since it dries faster and is a little easier to work with. Unfortunately it doesn't dry to a hardened finish as well as tung oil and tends to turn very dark when it begins to oxidize.
Here is a picture from the CMP forums of a birch stock that was refinished using mixture of Fiebings dark brown mixed with a small amount of Chestnut Ridge and topped off with Tom's 1/3 mix. It gives an appearance closer to a dark aged walnut stock.
If that look is too dark, you can always use Fiebings medium brown instead. It is a little closer in color to some of the post war replacement birch stocks that you see. Below is a birch stock that I refinished using this dye, BLO, and Johnson's paste wax. Congrats and good luck.
