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The Range
Handgun Discussion
Now this is a 10mm Glock I could get into.
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<blockquote data-quote="Mad Professor" data-source="post: 3581817" data-attributes="member: 5316"><p>I shoot Glock 10mms, a 20 and 29, in competitions. It is very similar to loading a for .40. But you just can’t interchange the data. I also load .40 and use the same bullet in both, a 180g jacketed hollow point. </p><p></p><p>One particular .40 load that I developed for bowling pins and USPSA runs 939fps/169pf. This .40 cartridge runs great out of my 10mm guns. But in competition, I have to use a 10mm cartridge. The same powder charge in a 10mm case resulted in an inconsistent burn developing velocities of only 780-830fps. I had to add .5 grain of powder to get it the velocity standard deviation (SD) down in the single digits and it still is down on power compared to the .40 load, making 856fps/154pf. </p><p></p><p>That 1/2 grain is over 10% of the previous .40 load. Looking back at my load development data on the .40, I got the same (856fps/153pf) velocity with .9 grain less powder. 20% more powder to get the same velocity. Same powder. Same bullet. Both standard Federal primers, although the .40 uses SPP and the 10 uses LPP. The case volume of the .40 vs 10mm makes a real difference. This is also why seating depth can make a difference as it alters the case volume. </p><p></p><p>Now to step this cartridge up to true 10mm velocities, you just can’t add more of the same powder I’m using. The quicker burning powers I’m achieving these results at could be dangerous and erratic trying to get to those velocities. A slower burning powder would be more desirable to use to prevent running at that powder’s absolute maximum. </p><p></p><p>Conversely, the powder I’ve used to push the same bullet to 1167fps/210pf will be inconsistent and inaccurate if I tried to reduce the load/velocity anywhere close to the velocities of the quicker burning powder. </p><p></p><p></p><p>For 10mm light loads you want to use something along the burn rate chart like Tightgroup, Sport pistol, green dot, N320, WST, AA#2 HP38/Win 231. To achieve higher velocities you need to move up to slower burning powders like CFE pistol, HS-6, autocomp, WSF, power pistol, n340, blue dot, etc. </p><p></p><p>While I’m comparing the above powders by burn rate, their accuracy might vary greatly, even operating in their zone of efficiency, with your particular cartridge, bullet, gun. I push toward 2” and smaller groups at 25 yards. If noise and smoke are your only goal, you can be much less picky within the same burn rates!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mad Professor, post: 3581817, member: 5316"] I shoot Glock 10mms, a 20 and 29, in competitions. It is very similar to loading a for .40. But you just can’t interchange the data. I also load .40 and use the same bullet in both, a 180g jacketed hollow point. One particular .40 load that I developed for bowling pins and USPSA runs 939fps/169pf. This .40 cartridge runs great out of my 10mm guns. But in competition, I have to use a 10mm cartridge. The same powder charge in a 10mm case resulted in an inconsistent burn developing velocities of only 780-830fps. I had to add .5 grain of powder to get it the velocity standard deviation (SD) down in the single digits and it still is down on power compared to the .40 load, making 856fps/154pf. That 1/2 grain is over 10% of the previous .40 load. Looking back at my load development data on the .40, I got the same (856fps/153pf) velocity with .9 grain less powder. 20% more powder to get the same velocity. Same powder. Same bullet. Both standard Federal primers, although the .40 uses SPP and the 10 uses LPP. The case volume of the .40 vs 10mm makes a real difference. This is also why seating depth can make a difference as it alters the case volume. Now to step this cartridge up to true 10mm velocities, you just can’t add more of the same powder I’m using. The quicker burning powers I’m achieving these results at could be dangerous and erratic trying to get to those velocities. A slower burning powder would be more desirable to use to prevent running at that powder’s absolute maximum. Conversely, the powder I’ve used to push the same bullet to 1167fps/210pf will be inconsistent and inaccurate if I tried to reduce the load/velocity anywhere close to the velocities of the quicker burning powder. For 10mm light loads you want to use something along the burn rate chart like Tightgroup, Sport pistol, green dot, N320, WST, AA#2 HP38/Win 231. To achieve higher velocities you need to move up to slower burning powders like CFE pistol, HS-6, autocomp, WSF, power pistol, n340, blue dot, etc. While I’m comparing the above powders by burn rate, their accuracy might vary greatly, even operating in their zone of efficiency, with your particular cartridge, bullet, gun. I push toward 2” and smaller groups at 25 yards. If noise and smoke are your only goal, you can be much less picky within the same burn rates! [/QUOTE]
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