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<blockquote data-quote="RidgeHunter" data-source="post: 1707566" data-attributes="member: 4319"><p>Nah, I meant the rest of the shots on that roll were way underexposed. The shots I posted were the better ones, especially considering it was a very dark, overcast day with 100 film. No corrections; just the scans as I got them from the processor. The meter may be a bit inaccurate, but I think most of the issues (on the shots I didn't post) arose from trying to use slow film in situations I shouldn't have. I ran another roll of Velvia through it this weekend, and I set it to full manual and more or less sunny 16'd it based off Fuji exposure guide just to see how that does. Thanks for the tip on the light meter apps. I may try one before I end up buying a handheld. </p><p></p><p>I always wanted a No. 1 and a .35 Whelen, so when they made 250 blued No. 1s in .35 Whelen I had to kill two birds with one stone so to speak. I like it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="RidgeHunter, post: 1707566, member: 4319"] Nah, I meant the rest of the shots on that roll were way underexposed. The shots I posted were the better ones, especially considering it was a very dark, overcast day with 100 film. No corrections; just the scans as I got them from the processor. The meter may be a bit inaccurate, but I think most of the issues (on the shots I didn't post) arose from trying to use slow film in situations I shouldn't have. I ran another roll of Velvia through it this weekend, and I set it to full manual and more or less sunny 16'd it based off Fuji exposure guide just to see how that does. Thanks for the tip on the light meter apps. I may try one before I end up buying a handheld. I always wanted a No. 1 and a .35 Whelen, so when they made 250 blued No. 1s in .35 Whelen I had to kill two birds with one stone so to speak. I like it. [/QUOTE]
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