Reply to Thread

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Message: <blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 2876674" data-attributes="member: 15054">My buddy had cupon and the mig was on sale it was Harbour freight one.. he ended up paying like 60 bucks for it.Worth a try at 60..I will say this having welded since i was 12 that cheap arse mig welds very well.Welded up some gate hinges and exhaust on his corvette i sold him.I have a lincoln 110 mig and it is ok  nothing like a miller 220.But that ain't what i got it for.On rust ..for many years on cars when the rear wheel wells rusted out in the trunk i would pop rivet aluminum sheet in place and roll it to the under side of the car and hammer hammer hammer form it to the weld seams and around them..more rivets ..I would then counter sink the aluminum and rivets with a hammer and then lay fiberglass over all of it until it was really close .. then a thin skin of bondo etc etc.I used an angle grinder sanding pad chucked up in a drill 36 grit to prep the metal for my fiberglass to hold onto.I made rear  flares once from bondo glass on a 72 nova.. Looked factory and my buddy asked how much my air shocks were,,I said I do not have air shocks I raised the fender lip height 3" while i was at it.I tried to kick them off once when i got rid of the car to the salvage yard..They did not budge.. and we are talking 4" thick bondo.I used a lot of galvanized sheet metal to repair floors and it always got screws or rivets and then fiberglassed.I do weld some in now and then but for my rust repairs i grab the fiberglass.Something to think about</blockquote>

Verification