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The Water Cooler
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<blockquote data-quote="Parks 788" data-source="post: 2012631" data-attributes="member: 14646"><p>Can't help with all of it but here is my $.02</p><p></p><p>I ran 1" schedule 80 PVC for most of the length from the street shutoff to my house. I did this because if I ever break the water line while planting trees or what not I can fix it easier than having to break out the torch, flux, etc. My big recommendation is to have at least two separate shutoffs between the street and your house. I say this because if you ever have a line break anywhere in the house or property you have back up shutoff. What I mean by this is that over time I guarantee you that valves will not always close completely. When you have a water line break our you need to do any repair and you shut off the one valve you have and it leaks it becomes a absolute ***** to solder a copper line with a dribble of water going through the copper fittings. Two valves to close will allow you to have extra security.</p><p></p><p>Also, I would place one valve right where it goes into the house or is quick and easy access to run out the door and turn it off. I prefer to use the 90* ball valves. I will give them a turn or three very several weeks to keep the "fresh".</p><p></p><p>For the slip joint. Shouldn't need any lube just some water to wet it. Just make sure they are loosened up all the way. Also, if your using 3/4" slip joint it is probably only 6" long so just put each end only 2" or so in each side and tighten. It sort of a compression fitting type deal.</p><p></p><p>If you decide to solder on a ball valve be sure to keep the valve open when soldering so it doesn't heat up too much and melt the seal around the ball.</p><p></p><p>My house has (going backwards), 3/4" from house to 3/4" ball valve soldered to it then a length of 3/4" copper pipe then a 3/4" to 1" female threaded copper fitting soldered into the copper pipe then a male schedule 80 fitting glued into the schedule 80 pipe that runs to the street about 70' away. Hope this makes sense and helps.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Parks 788, post: 2012631, member: 14646"] Can't help with all of it but here is my $.02 I ran 1" schedule 80 PVC for most of the length from the street shutoff to my house. I did this because if I ever break the water line while planting trees or what not I can fix it easier than having to break out the torch, flux, etc. My big recommendation is to have at least two separate shutoffs between the street and your house. I say this because if you ever have a line break anywhere in the house or property you have back up shutoff. What I mean by this is that over time I guarantee you that valves will not always close completely. When you have a water line break our you need to do any repair and you shut off the one valve you have and it leaks it becomes a absolute ***** to solder a copper line with a dribble of water going through the copper fittings. Two valves to close will allow you to have extra security. Also, I would place one valve right where it goes into the house or is quick and easy access to run out the door and turn it off. I prefer to use the 90* ball valves. I will give them a turn or three very several weeks to keep the "fresh". For the slip joint. Shouldn't need any lube just some water to wet it. Just make sure they are loosened up all the way. Also, if your using 3/4" slip joint it is probably only 6" long so just put each end only 2" or so in each side and tighten. It sort of a compression fitting type deal. If you decide to solder on a ball valve be sure to keep the valve open when soldering so it doesn't heat up too much and melt the seal around the ball. My house has (going backwards), 3/4" from house to 3/4" ball valve soldered to it then a length of 3/4" copper pipe then a 3/4" to 1" female threaded copper fitting soldered into the copper pipe then a male schedule 80 fitting glued into the schedule 80 pipe that runs to the street about 70' away. Hope this makes sense and helps. [/QUOTE]
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