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Message: <blockquote data-quote="ForsakenConservative" data-source="post: 3560215" data-attributes="member: 47240">Don’t be afraid to load some proving “dummies” to get the final dimensions right......no powder or primer. I do the drop test mentioned earlier in the barrel from the disassembled gun. The round should drop in clean with a nice thump when it seats. Remember you must get the case mouth “crimped” to proper diameter, since the case was “belled” to accept the new bullet. It is a taper crimping, not the heavy roll-type crimp as used for rimmed cases. You must also be careful to not get it too small such that the case mouth passes into the rifling. The round should then fall out freely if the bullet did not hit the rifling ramps. If you have a factory round with similar bullet that works well in one of your pistols, try to duplicate its dimensions (length and case mouth diameter). A cheap dial caliper will prove useful here. Next build 3-5 proof dummies to load in your magazine for cycling checks. Each round should strip, chamber and eject smooth when the slide is cycled, I’m sure you know what it should feel like....  Once you’re satisfied with the feed quality, then build the real loads. I usually keep a few of the dummies, they can be used to set up dies if you switch between bullet types in the future. I try to concentrate on reliability in function over accuracy since all my guns shoot better than I do <img src="/images/smilies/new/loser2.gif"  class="smilie" loading="lazy" alt=":loser:" title="Loser2    :loser:" data-shortname=":loser:" />.Get a good manual, they have great info on powder characteristics, internal/external/terminal ballistics, and the real rules you should observe. Take your time, work carefully and enjoy!</blockquote>

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