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The Range
Ammo & Reloading
Recommend me a good scale?
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<blockquote data-quote="Larry Morgan" data-source="post: 2857353" data-attributes="member: 4676"><p>I have a GemPro 250, Redding #1 and Redding #2. Electronic is good, and usually less sensitive to air currents. Even the Redding #2 will be all OVER the place if the A/C kicks on. Some people say you can just average the movement of the beam in your head, but that makes some pretty strong assumptions about the linearity of the movement outside of zero. </p><p></p><p>You can get by even with most cheap digitals if you know how to avoid their pitfalls. One is to be wary of the reality that some of them don't behave super great with slowly trickling up. The easy way to test is to trickle up to your desired weight, then let it settle and see if it moves. Then finally totally remove it, then re-add it and see if it returns to the same reading. </p><p></p><p>Another is to watch for drift and non-repeatability. This can easily be done by rechecking zero and using a check weight (or many). </p><p></p><p>I also make mini check weights out of ordinary objects. I have made them as low as .1gn. Then I try them out in all my scales to see if they all agree with each other.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Larry Morgan, post: 2857353, member: 4676"] I have a GemPro 250, Redding #1 and Redding #2. Electronic is good, and usually less sensitive to air currents. Even the Redding #2 will be all OVER the place if the A/C kicks on. Some people say you can just average the movement of the beam in your head, but that makes some pretty strong assumptions about the linearity of the movement outside of zero. You can get by even with most cheap digitals if you know how to avoid their pitfalls. One is to be wary of the reality that some of them don't behave super great with slowly trickling up. The easy way to test is to trickle up to your desired weight, then let it settle and see if it moves. Then finally totally remove it, then re-add it and see if it returns to the same reading. Another is to watch for drift and non-repeatability. This can easily be done by rechecking zero and using a check weight (or many). I also make mini check weights out of ordinary objects. I have made them as low as .1gn. Then I try them out in all my scales to see if they all agree with each other. [/QUOTE]
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