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The Range
Gunsmithing & Repairs
Recycled 'Oil Bottle' 'Sanding Block(s)' for Stocks
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<blockquote data-quote="NomDeBoom" data-source="post: 3804885" data-attributes="member: 50898"><p>The sharper curved 'edges' of these little plastic bottles fit well when sanding around the front of the comb or any</p><p>built-in, carved cheek pieces. So yeah; you might want to try this.</p><p> And a copper (pre-1982) penny makes a good tool to scrape down those little 'rust pits' that sometimes occur on blued steel surfaces. Damn things can be 'evened out' a little better by just soaking in a drop of oil & using the edge of the coin to scrape the rust down/out/off. It's just the right hardness to loosen up rust, but won't hurt the solid blueing. Old trick, but one we can all use at times. Always remember to immediately clean any blood spots off of blued, (or even stainless) steel too, as it can etch into the steel & really wreck yer purty gun. So if you get a cut, or touch blood from hunting, keep it off of your firearms. I have an old WW2 Japanese Arisaka bayonet with some pretty deep etching...If it could talk, it'd prob'ly say ."Arrrrgghhlluhbbbshhhh!"</p><p>I'll have to make another post on patching & filling splits, small cracks, holes, etc... I have refined a few techniques that are fast, easy, & as LEAST as permanent as the missing wood ;-/</p><p></p><p>I'm very new to all this & am trying to learn to post things in the best category/forum- but please feel free to copy/adapt/move any of these little hints or methods to wherever they might get used to help someone.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NomDeBoom, post: 3804885, member: 50898"] The sharper curved 'edges' of these little plastic bottles fit well when sanding around the front of the comb or any built-in, carved cheek pieces. So yeah; you might want to try this. And a copper (pre-1982) penny makes a good tool to scrape down those little 'rust pits' that sometimes occur on blued steel surfaces. Damn things can be 'evened out' a little better by just soaking in a drop of oil & using the edge of the coin to scrape the rust down/out/off. It's just the right hardness to loosen up rust, but won't hurt the solid blueing. Old trick, but one we can all use at times. Always remember to immediately clean any blood spots off of blued, (or even stainless) steel too, as it can etch into the steel & really wreck yer purty gun. So if you get a cut, or touch blood from hunting, keep it off of your firearms. I have an old WW2 Japanese Arisaka bayonet with some pretty deep etching...If it could talk, it'd prob'ly say ."Arrrrgghhlluhbbbshhhh!" I'll have to make another post on patching & filling splits, small cracks, holes, etc... I have refined a few techniques that are fast, easy, & as LEAST as permanent as the missing wood ;-/ I'm very new to all this & am trying to learn to post things in the best category/forum- but please feel free to copy/adapt/move any of these little hints or methods to wherever they might get used to help someone. [/QUOTE]
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