Reloading - Does the bullet really matter

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OKCHunter

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While I haven't done much load work up since I bought a chrono, I always start well off max load and work up. In fact, I rarely load anything to max published in the first place.

Like I said, I don't start from max anyways, but if I'm using a Hornady 124gr FMJ 9mm and the load data is for a Speer 124gr FMJ 9mm I'm not too concerned. Going from an FMJ to JHP is where seating depth becomes an issue.

This thread has opened my eyes to bullet seating depth when using substitute bullets. After 20+ years of metallic reloading, a guy can always learn something new.
 

swampratt

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OKCHunter

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You stated in your first post you compensate for length.
I check jump to the lands with all my bullets. and then if the batch number changes i check again.
I also have a tool I made to check base to ogive. You will be surprised all the different length in a box of the same batch number.


http://www.brownells.com/reloading/...r-hex-style-bullet-comparators-prod83792.aspx

Yes. I check the OAL and the ogive to the rifling. What I didn't consider / know is the length of bullet seating and the bearing surface that could cause additional pressure.
 

swampratt

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Oh yes a longer bearing surface can cause more pressure to build.
If you have a Chrony you can test.
For instance My cast bullets with gas check and lubed with LLA in my 30-06 will cruise along at 1400fps with 11.5gr red dot powder.
You take a jacketed bullet with the same load and velocity is 100 fps less. The jacketed creates more pressure but results in less velocity.

Now to really dump the can of worms out you can have 2 bullets with same bearing surface same length etc.. but one could be a very soft core and the other a hard core or a solid bullet.. The hard bullet will most likely create more pressure. (but not always)

Now today the solid core bullets are of a much better design and alloy than 25+ years ago
and you could actually have an alloy or guilding surface that actually will have less pressure than a jacketed lead cored bullet.

Way too many variables to just say. This is it.

I should be working on my truck.
 

Pokinfun

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When I reload for rifles, I pretty much stay with what is in the manual, except for the OAL, I'll try to get the bullet as close to the lands as I can, about 0.020. Then I will back it off until groups start to open up. I hunt and shoot on a range. I never have tried to competition shoot, I know my limitations. I try to find a happy medium between loading in a magazine and as close to the lands as I can get.
Pistols, I have multiple 9mm and .45 acp pistols that I shoot. I buy pulled pistol bullets for the most part. I measure everything out and find a matching bullet for reloading with the manuals data.
Last year I purchased several hundred Winchester .223 bullets from the classifieds. I tossed in the die I have set for Hornady bullets and cranked out a couple hundred rounds. they ended up a hair too long to fit in a magazine. OAL and everything was good just slightly different length. I was glad that I had not crimped them. I had to go back and reseat the bullet.
 

OKCHunter

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You stated in your first post you compensate for length.
I check jump to the lands with all my bullets. and then if the batch number changes i check again.
I also have a tool I made to check base to ogive. You will be surprised all the different length in a box of the same batch number.


http://www.brownells.com/reloading/...r-hex-style-bullet-comparators-prod83792.aspx
By the way, that tool looks like it would be handy. I've got the Hornady comparator. Otherwise, I would probably add this to my tools. My final QA is to take sized brass (no powder and no primer) and cut a couple of slits in the neck. I start a bullet into the brass and then load it into the rifle. The bullet will seat against the rifling. From there, I subtract a little from the OAL in order to stay of the rifling. At that point, the measurement to the ogive is safe.
 

Pokinfun

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By the way, that tool looks like it would be handy. I've got the Hornady comparator. Otherwise, I would probably add this to my tools. My final QA is to take sized brass (no powder and no primer) and cut a couple of slits in the neck. I start a bullet into the brass and then load it into the rifle. The bullet will seat against the rifling. From there, I subtract a little from the OAL in order to stay of the rifling. At that point, the measurement to the ogive is safe.
I started with a split case, but it did not work as well as a Hornady OAL gauge.
www.6mmbr.com_i__Gear_Stoney_Point_OAL_RifleBigWEB.jpg
 

Pokinfun

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I've got one of those but never took the time to learn to use it. I've now learned two new things in this thread. :) Thanks.
the problem I had with the split case method, was the bullet would stick in the lands and I would get inconsistent measurements.
 

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