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The Range
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Reloading FAQs
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<blockquote data-quote="NikatKimber" data-source="post: 904745" data-attributes="member: 423"><p>Component Discussion</p><p></p><p>Before I can go into any detail on the equipment, you need to understand the basics of the process, and the components involved.</p><p></p><p>As I listed earlier, ammunition is made up of four basic components: brass, primer, powder, and bullet.</p><p></p><p>The "brass" is the case which holds the round together. I will explain the basic reloading process along with explaining the component. Start with a pile of each, all separate. If the brass is fired, most reloaders resize the brass. This is due to the pressure of the round going off very slightly stretching the brass. Also, if the brass is fired, there is a spent primer in the brass which must be removed. This is "depriming." Some brass, typically military, have "crimped" primer pockets. Before repriming, this crimp must be removed. Also, with rifle brass, the case will stretch as it is fired. Thus it is necessary to measure the length, and trim if necessary. With the brass is empty, the first thing done is to press in the primer. The primer is the "lighter" or "detonator" if you will, for the round. The firing pin of your gun strikes this, and it ignites the powder. The next step is "dropping" the powder in. There are different ways of doing this, but they all accomplish the same thing. The powder, being a highly flammable substance, is what generates the power of the round. It is also very sensitive, so this must be measured very exactly. It is also sensitive to pressure differences, this will become clearer later. If you are not familiar with the weight measurement "grain" now is the time to do so. In short, 7000 grains = 1 pound. Powder measurement typically must be kept accurate to the tenth of a grain, ie for a pistol round it might be 5.2 gr (grains), or for a rifle 43.5 gr. This is measured out, and funneled ("dropped") into the case. The final step is inserting the bullet. Again, this is a sensitive step. The bullet must be seated to a very specific depth. This is where the pressure sensitivity of the powder comes in to play. If you seat the bullet too deep, the powder will burn faster, possibly causing an explosion of the round and potentially the gun too. If seated too light, the powder may not burn fast enough to generate the required pressure to function correctly. Depending on the intended use for the round, the bullet is also sometimes crimped into the round, preventing the bullet seating depth from changing. This is typically for auto loading firearms, as these are more likely to push the bullet deeper into the brass.</p><p></p><p>To summarize:</p><p>Resize - if applicable</p><p>Deprime</p><p>Trim, crimp removal, other brass prep steps if necessary</p><p>Prime</p><p>Measure and drop powder</p><p>Seat bullet</p><p>Crimp bullet - if applicable</p><p></p><p>As I've said before, reloading is a very simple process, with a lot of chances to blow yourself up. So take care. It's not complicated, but you MUST pay attention to what you're doing.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="NikatKimber, post: 904745, member: 423"] Component Discussion Before I can go into any detail on the equipment, you need to understand the basics of the process, and the components involved. As I listed earlier, ammunition is made up of four basic components: brass, primer, powder, and bullet. The "brass" is the case which holds the round together. I will explain the basic reloading process along with explaining the component. Start with a pile of each, all separate. If the brass is fired, most reloaders resize the brass. This is due to the pressure of the round going off very slightly stretching the brass. Also, if the brass is fired, there is a spent primer in the brass which must be removed. This is "depriming." Some brass, typically military, have "crimped" primer pockets. Before repriming, this crimp must be removed. Also, with rifle brass, the case will stretch as it is fired. Thus it is necessary to measure the length, and trim if necessary. With the brass is empty, the first thing done is to press in the primer. The primer is the "lighter" or "detonator" if you will, for the round. The firing pin of your gun strikes this, and it ignites the powder. The next step is "dropping" the powder in. There are different ways of doing this, but they all accomplish the same thing. The powder, being a highly flammable substance, is what generates the power of the round. It is also very sensitive, so this must be measured very exactly. It is also sensitive to pressure differences, this will become clearer later. If you are not familiar with the weight measurement "grain" now is the time to do so. In short, 7000 grains = 1 pound. Powder measurement typically must be kept accurate to the tenth of a grain, ie for a pistol round it might be 5.2 gr (grains), or for a rifle 43.5 gr. This is measured out, and funneled ("dropped") into the case. The final step is inserting the bullet. Again, this is a sensitive step. The bullet must be seated to a very specific depth. This is where the pressure sensitivity of the powder comes in to play. If you seat the bullet too deep, the powder will burn faster, possibly causing an explosion of the round and potentially the gun too. If seated too light, the powder may not burn fast enough to generate the required pressure to function correctly. Depending on the intended use for the round, the bullet is also sometimes crimped into the round, preventing the bullet seating depth from changing. This is typically for auto loading firearms, as these are more likely to push the bullet deeper into the brass. To summarize: Resize - if applicable Deprime Trim, crimp removal, other brass prep steps if necessary Prime Measure and drop powder Seat bullet Crimp bullet - if applicable As I've said before, reloading is a very simple process, with a lot of chances to blow yourself up. So take care. It's not complicated, but you MUST pay attention to what you're doing. [/QUOTE]
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