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Message: <blockquote data-quote="ez bake" data-source="post: 1024083" data-attributes="member: 229">Unless... you know... you're actually wanting to shoot over 300yds with precision and available modern-day tools, possibly range-find with the reticle and might possibly want to shoot from the prone position off of a bi-pod.Here's the thing with long-range shooting (OP).  A lot of people say "I want to get into long-range shooting" and sort of pitter out after they figure out that its not cheap/easy to learn.There are easily 20 or so threads in this section about this very subject.  I've started a few and have posted very good info that I was able to find online in several of these threads.  I'm by far no expert, but I've learned a lot over the course of the past few years from a lot of folks here who know what they're talking about.One of the big things with long-range is consistency.  Get a rifle that is repeatable, but you don't have to spend a fortune on everything - just know what you're buying if you go budget (online reviews are a big help for this).If you're planning on shooting kneeling/standing/prone/bench then get a good sling and learn to use it properly in the various positions and either shoot off of sandbags in the prone (or if you're planning on doing a lot of prone shooting) get a bipod.They're nice if you're shooting in the prone a lot - especially if you're moving around any (like say... from one distance to another).  I used to be against swivel bi-pods, but now I'm doing things differently (read correcting some of my bad habbits), and I'm again looking for a swivel.More often than not,  your rifle will out-shoot you, so you need some good tips/pointers and then you need to practice things the right way (which means lots of ammo).You can, however, benefit from reading stuff online and researching different topics to get a better feel for things.  While the general concept is simple, there is a ton of math behind milliradians and Minutes.  Understanding this will help you with doing with things like range-finding (if you're not at a known range), or holdovers/knob-adjustments..308 is a good caliber to start with.  If you're shooting the rifle correctly, you can shoot a .338 and still handle the recoil (i.e. don't fight the recoil, but position your body correctly, mount the gun properly, and use your natural recoil-buffer to stay correctly behind the rifle and it will absorb it with no issues).  That being said, .308 is fairly soft recoil compared to many other calibers.I'd stay clear of 30-06 for paper-punching due to the extra recoil (with no serious added ballistic benefit - I'm talking about punching paper here), and the cost of ammo.  Cost is also something to consider with .243, and any number of other calibers that are more intended for hunting than paper-punching (especially if, like you said, you're not reloading - I'm in the same boat right now).  You can bulk-order .223 and .308 match-grade ammo cheaply.  .223 is less than .308, but at a certain distance, the wind will make you its bitch if you're using .223 - it can be overcome, but with Oklahoma's gusts, its really difficult out past 400-500yds).</blockquote>

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