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<blockquote data-quote="swampratt" data-source="post: 3101091" data-attributes="member: 15054"><p>I build the old school reliable 350's for myself all the time.. and my buddies seem to like them also.</p><p>It is getting a little harder to come up with good cores to build off of.</p><p>There is a lot of power to be had in cylinder head work.</p><p>Get this book for cylinder head .</p><p><a href="https://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Small-Block-Cylinder-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0879385472" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Small-Block-Cylinder-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0879385472</a></p><p></p><p>There are books on blocks also.</p><p>But a lot of that is old school and the old school parts that worked very well then are not the same quality they once were.</p><p>Pistons I used were USA made Sealed power 345NP that piston today is not the same at all.</p><p></p><p>Stay away from the Hypereutectic pistons unless you build a low 9.5 compression or less deal.</p><p>I always shoot for a minimum compression of 10.3 and my 57 chevy 4 door has 10.87 actual compression and a cam that closes the intake valve very early.</p><p></p><p>Cylinder wall prep is a huge player in longevity . If you finish hone the walls coarse like 240 grit or even 400 grit you will have early wear.. basically the cylinder wall will slick up with the rings and if you finish coarse at 240 grit the final after rings are bedded in will be much smoother..think about where all that coarse surface grit went.</p><p></p><p>The filter does not filter 100% so do not expect it to catch the debris.</p><p>The cam lobes are basically oiled by splash oiling.. one reason during cam break-in you need to keep the RPM above 2000 and prefer 2500-3000 during breakin.. speaking flat tappet cam.</p><p>Roller cam is different.</p><p></p><p>If you do not plan on reving above say 6500rpm ever then the factory roller block would be a good bet and run a factory roller cam like the GM Hot cam.</p><p>Or a similar type.</p><p>I like rpm and so 7000+ and many times over 7500rpm is what trips my trigger ..the factory roller cam spider and factory type lifters will get in trouble.</p><p>I run flat tappet.</p><p>Here is an excellent read on roller cams.</p><p><a href="http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/just-a-heads-up-on-hydraulic-roller-lifter-selection.5522/" target="_blank">http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/just-a-heads-up-on-hydraulic-roller-lifter-selection.5522/</a></p><p></p><p>Here is a good sight to learn stuff from. </p><p><a href="http://www.chevelles.com/forums/" target="_blank">http://www.chevelles.com/forums/</a></p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="swampratt, post: 3101091, member: 15054"] I build the old school reliable 350's for myself all the time.. and my buddies seem to like them also. It is getting a little harder to come up with good cores to build off of. There is a lot of power to be had in cylinder head work. Get this book for cylinder head . [URL]https://www.amazon.com/Chevrolet-Small-Block-Cylinder-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0879385472[/URL] There are books on blocks also. But a lot of that is old school and the old school parts that worked very well then are not the same quality they once were. Pistons I used were USA made Sealed power 345NP that piston today is not the same at all. Stay away from the Hypereutectic pistons unless you build a low 9.5 compression or less deal. I always shoot for a minimum compression of 10.3 and my 57 chevy 4 door has 10.87 actual compression and a cam that closes the intake valve very early. Cylinder wall prep is a huge player in longevity . If you finish hone the walls coarse like 240 grit or even 400 grit you will have early wear.. basically the cylinder wall will slick up with the rings and if you finish coarse at 240 grit the final after rings are bedded in will be much smoother..think about where all that coarse surface grit went. The filter does not filter 100% so do not expect it to catch the debris. The cam lobes are basically oiled by splash oiling.. one reason during cam break-in you need to keep the RPM above 2000 and prefer 2500-3000 during breakin.. speaking flat tappet cam. Roller cam is different. If you do not plan on reving above say 6500rpm ever then the factory roller block would be a good bet and run a factory roller cam like the GM Hot cam. Or a similar type. I like rpm and so 7000+ and many times over 7500rpm is what trips my trigger ..the factory roller cam spider and factory type lifters will get in trouble. I run flat tappet. Here is an excellent read on roller cams. [URL]http://garage.grumpysperformance.com/index.php?threads/just-a-heads-up-on-hydraulic-roller-lifter-selection.5522/[/URL] Here is a good sight to learn stuff from. [URL]http://www.chevelles.com/forums/[/URL] [/QUOTE]
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